Weaving, Veiling, and Dressing: Textiles and Their Metaphors in the Late Middle Ages

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Christianity is a religion of clothing. To become a priest or a nun is to take the cloth. The Christian liturgy is intimately bound with veiling objects and revealing them. Cloths hide the altar, making it all the more spectacular when it is revealed. Fragments of imported silk cradle the relic, thereby giving identity to the dessicated bone. Much of that silk came from the east, meaning that a material of Islamic origin was a primary signifier of sanctity in Christianity. 'Weaving, Veiling, and Dressing' brings together twelve essays about text and textile, about silk and wool, about the formation of identity through fibre. The essays bring to light hitherto unseen material, and for the first time, establish the function of textiles as a culturally rich way to approach the Middle Ages. Textiles were omnipresent in the medieval church, but have not survived well. To uncover their uses, presence, and meanings in the Middle Ages is to reconsider the period spun, draped, clothed, shrouded, and dressed. Textiles in particular were essential to the performance of devotion and of the liturgy. Brightly dyed cloth was a highly visible maker of meaning. While some aspects of culture have been studied, namely the important tapestry industry, as well as some of the repercussions and activities of cloth guilds, other areas of textile studies in the period are yet to be studied. This book brings an interdisciplinary approach to new material, drawing on art history, anthropology, medieval text history, theology, and gender and performance studies. It makes a compelling miscellany exploring the nature of Christianity in the largely uninvestigated field of text and textile interplay.

Author(s): Kathryn M. Rudy, Barbara Baert (eds.)
Series: Medieval Church Studies, 12
Publisher: Brepols
Year: 2007

Language: English
Pages: 384
City: Turnhout

List of Figures vii
List of Plates xix
Introduction: Miraculous Textiles in 'Exempla' and Images from the Low Countries / KATHRYN M. RUDY 1
Part One: Weaving
Weaving / BARBARA BAERT 39
Weaving Mary’s Chaplet: The Representation of the Rosary in Late Medieval Flemish Manuscript Illumination / ANNE MARGREET W. AS-VIJVERS 41
Praying, Threading, and Adorning: Sewn-in Prints in a Rosary Prayer Book (London, British Library, Add. MS 14042) / HANNEKE VAN ASPEREN 81
The Representation and Meaning of Luxurious Textiles in Franco-Flemish Manuscript Illumination / MARGARET L. GOEHRING 121
Part Two: Veiling
Veiling / BARBARA BAERT 159
Raising the Curtain on the Use of Textiles in Manuscripts / CHRISTINE SCIACCA 161
Curtains, 'Revelatio', and Pictorial Reality in Late Medieval Renaissance Italy / VICTOR M. SCHMIDT 191
Mantle, Fur, Pallium: Veiling and Unveiling in the Martyrdom of Agnes of Rome / BARBARA BAERT 215
Part Three: Dressing
Dressing / BARBARA BAERT 241
The Clothing of Poverty and Sanctity in Legends, and their Representations in Trecento and Quattrocento Italy / PHILINE HELAS 245
Clothing, Exposure, and the Depiction of Sin in Passion Iconography / MARTHA BAYLESS 289
Swaddled or Shrouded? The Interpretation of'Chrysom' Effigies on Late Medieval Tomb Monuments / SOPHIE OOSTERWIJK 307
List of Contributors 349
Index 353