This is the first global history of dress regulation and its place in broader debates around how human life and societies should be visualised and materialised. Sumptuary laws were a tool on the part of states to regulate not only manufacturing systems and moral economies via the medium of expenditure and consumption of clothing but also banquets, festivities and funerals. Leading scholars on Asian, Latin American, Ottoman and European history shed new light on how and why items of dress became key aspirational goods across society, how they were lobbied for and marketed, and whether or not sumptuary laws were implemented by cities, states and empires to restrict or channel trade and consumption. Their findings reveal the significance of sumptuary laws in medieval and early modern societies as a site of contestation between individuals and states and how dress as an expression of identity developed as a modern 'human right'.
Author(s): Giorgio Riello (editor); Ulinka Rublack (editor)
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Year: 2019
01.0_pp_i_ii_The_Right_to_Dress
02.0_pp_iii_iii_The_Right_to_Dress
03.0_pp_iv_iv_Copyright_page
04.0_pp_v_viii_Contents
05.0_pp_ix_xii_Figures
06.0_pp_xiii_xvi_Contributors
07.0_pp_xvii_xviii_Acknowledgements
08.0_pp_1_34_Introduction
09.0_pp_35_164_Sumptuary_Laws_in_Medieval_and_Early_Modern_Europe
09.1_pp_37_73_The_Right_to_Dress_Sartorial_Politics_in_Germany_c_13001750
09.2_pp_74_95_Playing_by_the_Rules_Dressing_without_Sumptuary_Laws_in_the_Low_Countries_from_the_Fourteenth_to_the
09.3_pp_96_120_Outlandish_Superfluities_Luxury_and_Clothing_in_Scottish_and_English_Sumptuary_Law_from_the_Fourteen
09.4_pp_121_142_Regulating_Sumptuousness_Changing_Configurations_of_Morals_Politics_and_Economics_in_Swiss_Cities_in
09.5_pp_143_164_Dangerous_Fashions_in_Swedish_Sumptuary_Law
10.0_pp_165_240_Enacting_Sumptuary_Laws_in_Italy
10.1_pp_167_185_Sumptuary_Laws_in_Italy_Financial_Resource_and_Instrument_of_Rule
10.2_pp_186_209_Defending_the_Right_to_Dress_Two_Sumptuary_Law_Protests_in_Sixteenth-Century_Milan
10.3_pp_210_240_Against_the_Law_Sumptuary_Prosecutions_in_Sixteenth-_and_Seventeenth-Century_Padova
11.0_pp_241_372_The_European_Maritime_Powers_and_Their_Empires
11.1_pp_243_272_Spanish_Fashion_and_Sumptuary_Legislation_from_the_Thirteenth_to_the_Eighteenth_Century
11.2_pp_273_298_Sumptuary_Laws_in_Portugal_and_its_Empire_from_the_Fourteenth_to_the_Eighteenth_Century
11.3_pp_299_324_Splendour_and_Magnificence_Diplomacy_and_Sumptuary_Codes_in_Early_Modern_Batavia
11.4_pp_325_345_Race_Clothing_and_Identity_Sumptuary_Laws_in_Colonial_Spanish_America
11.5_pp_346_372_Sartorial_Sorting_in_the_Colonial_Caribbean_and_North_America
12.0_pp_373_478_Early_Modern_World_Empires
12.1_pp_375_392_Grandeur_and_Show_Clothing_Commerce_and_the_Capital_in_Early_Modern_Russia
12.2_pp_393_415_Women_Minorities_and_the_Changing_Politics_of_Dress_in_the_Ottoman_Empire_16501830
12.3_pp_416_434_Wearing_the_Hat_of_Loyalty_Imperial_Power_and_Dress_Reform_in_Ming_Dynasty_China
12.4_pp_435_460_Regulating_Excess_The_Cultural_Politics_of_Consumption_in_Tokugawa_Japan
12.5_pp_461_478_Sumptuary_Laws_in_Precolonial_West_Africa_The_Examples_of_Benin_and_Dahomey