This volume presents a collection of essays that explore the relationship between sporting clothing and gender. Drawing on uniform and sports apparel as a means of exploring the socio-sexual politics of contemporary US society, the contributions analyse the historical, political-economic, socio-cultural and sport-specific dimensions of gendered clothing in sport.
Part of a two-volume series (the other discussing this phenomenon in a global context), contributors cover topics such as WNBA uniform politics, military promotion, female sportscaster clothing, magazine depictions, plus-size exercise apparel, FloJo, the Skirt Chaser 5k race, and the socio-politics of the LPGA, CrossFit, roller derby, rock climbing, and more.
As the first single compendium to discuss American sportswomen’s apparel, this collection will be of interest to practitioners and scholars of sports history, the sociology of sport, and gender/media studies.
Author(s): Linda K. Fuller
Series: New Femininities in Digital, Physical and Sporting Cultures
Publisher: Palgrave Macmillan
Year: 2021
Language: English
Pages: 277
City: Cham
Preface
Uniformly
Discussed
Literature Review
Gendered Critical Discourse Analysis (GCDA)
Introduction to American Sportswomen’s Apparel
Historical Perspectives
Sociopolitical Perspectives
Sociocultural Perspectives
Sport-Specific Perspectives
Reflections
References
Praise for Sportswomen’s Apparel in the United States
Contents
Notes on Contributors
List of Figures
An Introduction to American Sportswomen’s Apparel
Uniformly
Discussed
Literature Review
Gendered Critical Discourse Analysis (GCDA)
Sportswomen’s Apparel
Historical Perspectives
Socio-political Perspectives
Socio-cultural Perspectives
Sport-Specific Perspectives
Reflections
References
Part I: Historical Perspectives
Chapter 1: “Exercise Requires the Greatest Freedom”; Athletic Clothing for American Women, 1880–1920
Introduction
Historical Perspective
Adelia K. Brainerd and Harper’s Bazaar: A Case Study
Corsets
Sport-Specific Clothing
Gymnastics
Bicycling
Golf
Tennis
Field Hockey
Swimming
Conclusion
References
Chapter 2: Of Tennis Dresses, Golf Sweaters and Bicycling Shorts; College Women and the Making of the American Sportswear Industry, 1890–1960
Where Do Our Clothes Come From?
“Something Closely Resembling Underwear”: Shorts as Gym Uniform and Fashion
“At Least a Dozen Sweaters”: College Women’s Love Affair with Knitwear
Binding Off: A Conclusion
References
Part II: Socio-Political Perspectives
Chapter 3: Blocked Out; Athletic Voices and WNBA Uniform Politics
Introduction
Sport Clothing as Politics
WNBA Uniform Politics, April–July 2016
April 2016: Economic Vulnerability and Corporate Voice in the WNBA
June 2016: #ORLANDO UNITED and Sanctioned Political Discourse in the WNBA
July 2016: Black Lives Matter and Unsanctioned Player Protest
Discussion and Implications
Corporate Voice and Neoliberal Rhetoric in Sport
Joy, Victory, and Commercialization of Affects
Intersectionality and Solidarity in Sport Activism
Conclusions
References
Chapter 4: Apathy and/or Ambivalence?; Women’s Sport and Military Promotion
The US Military and Women
The US Military and Sport
The Uniform as Text: Post 9/11 “Patriotism” and Sport
Speaker
Audience
Topic
Persuasive Field
Setting
Media
Rhetorical Conventions
What Is the US Military Telling Women’s Sport Audiences?
What Are Women’s Sport Entities Telling Their Audiences About the US Military?
Conclusions
References
Part III: Socio-Cultural Perspectives
Chapter 5: “It’s Always Something”; The Scrutiny of Female Sportscasters’ Professional Clothing
Literature Review
Women in Broadcasting
Attitudes Toward Women in Sports Broadcasting
Formal and Informal Contracts
Methodology
Analysis
Cultural Norms
Audience Responses to Women Sportscasters
Formal and Informal Contracts with Management
Discussion
Conclusions
References
Chapter 6: Jumping Through Hoops; A Post-structural Gendered Critique of Magazine Covers Depicting Female Athletes
What’s in a Uniform?
Methodology
Sports Magazines and Gender Roles
Sport as a Disciplinary Practice
Institution of Femininity
Heterosexuality as Organization
Magazine Representation of Female Athletes
Feminized, Sexualized, and Domesticized
Conclusions
References
Chapter 7: Exploring Plus-Size Exercise Apparel as a Social Justice Issue; Understanding How All Pants ARE NOT Created Equal
Introduction
Weight Bias
Plus-Size Exercise Apparel and Social Justice
The “Fat Tax”
Experiences Shopping for Plus-Size Exercise Apparel
Suggestions for Manufacturers and Retailers
Recommendations for Size Inclusiveness in the Exercise Industry
References
Chapter 8: In Flo Jo Fashion; The Cultural Appropriation of Sportswomen’s Apparel
The Fastest, Most Fashionable Woman in the World
Death of a Legacy and Birth of a Billion-Dollar Industry
Athleisure: Birth or Rebirth?
Race, Gender, and Class: Attack on the Sportswoman
Reclaiming the Race
References
Chapter 9: Buying What’s for Sale?: Running, Flirting, and Fashion at the Skirt Chaser 5k Race Series
Ready, Set, Go
Methodology
Running: Fun, Innovative, and “Skirts Start First”
Flirting: Catching a Future Spouse
Fashion: Skirt Revolution
Conclusions
References
Part IV: Sport-Specific Perspectives
Chapter 10: Skating with Style; Rolling with Reflection and Resistance in Roller Derby Uniforms and Fashion
The 1930s: Transcontinental Roller Derby
1950s–1970s: Roller Derby Hits Its Stride
The 1980s–1990s: RollerGames and RollerJam
The 2000s: The TXRD and WFTDA
Women’s Roller Derby Uniforms: Skating Between Spectacle and Sport
References
Chapter 11: “We Wear So Little”; Collegiate Women Gymnasts’ Reflections on Their Uniforms
Introduction
Methodology
Sampling and Participants
Measures and Analysis
Findings
Diverse Responses
Gymnastics Uniforms as Revealing
Concerns About Body Image
Suggestions for Changes to Uniforms
The Nature of Gymnastics
Summary of Findings
Conclusions
References
Chapter 12: “I’m Too Sexy for My Shirt”; The LPGA Dress Code
Introduction
The Female Athlete Paradox
Overview of Women’s Athletic Attire
Professional Dress Codes
Methodology
LPGA Member Social Media Accounts
Conclusion
References
Chapter 13: Badass CrossFit Women; Redefining Traditional Femininity, One Handstand Push-Up at a Time
Introduction
Clothing Functionality
Body Transformations and Apparel Evolution
Navigating a CrossFit Body and Everyday Apparel
Conclusion
References
Chapter 14: A Feminist Media Analysis of the Digiulian-Kinder Incident; Rock Climber Cyber-Bullying on Instagram
Background to a Confrontation
Literature Review
News Media Discourses of Sport and Gender
Methodology: Textual Analysis
Media Coverage of Gender and Sport
Trivialization of Digiulian’s Climbing Accomplishments
Minimization of Culpability and Kinder’s Actions
Attention to Gender and Diversity Issues in Climbing
Discussion
References
Index