Patternmaking History and Theory

Cover page
Halftitle page
Title page
Copyright page
Contents
List of Illustrations
Notes on Contributors
Preface
Introduction
1 A Brief History of Patternmaking
Part One Approaches to Patterning Apparel: Formal Systems and Improvisation
2 An Education in Pattern Cutting c . 1950; the Work of E. Sheila MacEwan
E. Sheila MacEwan as an educator
Publishing pattern cutting texts in post-war Britain
The Sylvan Press and Your Home Craft Series
Changing landscapes in fashion production
Your Pattern Cutting : approaches to cutting and design
MacEwan’s design philosophy
Austerity and agency
Conclusion
3 “Knitting Instructions”: An Analysis of Red Cross Clothing Patterns, 1917–65
“Knitting now monopolizing women’s attention”
The Woman’s Bureau: 1917
The Department of Development: 1918–21
Between the wars: 1922–39
The Second World War: 1939–45
The last twenty years: 1945–65
Conclusion
4 Making and Mending for Victory: Pattern Creation, Distribution, Use, and the Goal of Conservation for Home Sewers During the Second World War
Making, mending, and the culture of sewing
Paper patterns: design, availability, and challenges of use
Communication of pattern concepts in pictures, through diagrams, and in text
Pattern drafting: texts, tools, and classes
Conclusions
Part Two Perspectives on Technical Design and Technological Advancement in Apparel Pattern Drafting
5 The Tailor’s Voice: Pattern Drafting Systems and the State of the Art
Introduction
The making of menswear in the nineteenth century
Challenges to the trade
Eye, mind, hand—the work of the tailor
The development of printed pattern draft ing systems
British vs. American differences
Conclusion
6 Computer-Aided Patternmaking: A Brief History of Technology Acceptance from 2D Pattern Drafting to 3D Modeling
Introduction
Emergence of CAD
CAD terms and definitions
Importance of CAD in the apparel industry: big picture
CAD in technical apparel design and manufacturing
Technology acceptance and diffusion of CAD patternmaking
Future trends pertaining to CAD patternmaking and conclusions
7 Patternmaking Methods for Creating Size-Adjustable Garments
Introduction
Improving garment fit potential
Improving apparel sustainability
Method
Information sources
Information exploration approaches
How garment patterns have been changed to make garments size-adjustable
Conclusion: current and future applications of historical patternmaking practices to make garments adjustable
8 Home Sewing Transformed: Changes in Sewing Pattern Formats and the Significance of Social Media and Web-Based Platforms in Participation
Information sources
Method: study of women’s sewing motivations and practices
Method: independent sewing pattern designers
Background: the home sewing participation resurgence
The impact of the internet on twenty-first century home sewing participation
Sewing knowledge
Sewing together: the internet as a community building and decision-making tool
Home sewing patterns in the twenty-first century: the impact of the internet
Changes in home sewing patterns: format and content
Changes in home sewing patterns: who has the ability to design and sell
Conclusion
Part Three Creative Diversity: Multicultural Approaches to Pattern Creation
9 Creolized Patterning: A Jamaican Perspective
Freehand dressmaking
Miss Cherry
Gloria West
Mrs. Andrea “Anniegee” Graham
Conclusion
10 Re-Make, Re-Model, Re-Define: Fashioning a Nation’s Identity
Edicts, status, fabrication, and cut
Modernization, Westernization, and the breaking of traditions
Identity, economy, and practicality
11 The Ottoman Kaft an: Designed to Impress
Kaftan construction
Conclusion
Notes
Bibliography
Index