Making Food in Local and Global Contexts: Anthropological Perspectives

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This book is a collection of research focusing on the anthropological aspects of how food is made in modern society from both global and local perspectives. Modern food consumed in any society is created in a variety of natural and cultural environments. There is a "food democracy" in which how we procure and share food can be an indicator of our participation in society, while food nurtured in particular climates and land can be transmitted to the outside world owing to the influence of tourism and the global economy, a phenomenon that is recognized on a global scale as exemplified by the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. In other words, food is an aspect of both culture and civilization. Anthropological approaches are used to reveal the humanistic aspects of food, highlighting the strength and individuality of regional and ethnic foods in global civilizations. The book is a compilation of results from sessions of the international symposium “Making Food in Human and Natural History”, which took place on March 18 and 19, 2019, in Osaka, Japan.

Author(s): Atsushi Nobayashi
Publisher: Springer
Year: 2022

Language: English
Pages: 210
City: Singapore

Preface
Acknowledgements
Contents
Introduction: Making Food in the Cultural and Civilized Contexts
1 Scope of This Book
2 A Japanese Study of Food in Civilization and Culture
3 Foodscape and Local Food
4 Cooking as Art
5 Food in the Individual and the Population
6 Contents of Each Chapter
References
Ecology and Food
Gastronomical Goods as a Biocultural Value of Wood Pastures in Eastern Europe
1 Introduction
2 Field Sites and Method
3 Results
3.1 Wild Fruit Trees in Sztána, Zsobok and Kispetri
3.2 Cornelian Cherry (Cornus Mas)
3.3 Wild Pear (Pyrus Pyraster)
3.4 Wild Apple (Malus Sylvestris)
3.5 Wild Cherry (Cerasus Avium)
4 Discussion
5 Conclusions
References
Merroir in the Making: Provenance Fetishism and the Social Construction of Taste in the Japanese Seafood System
1 Introduction
2 Fishery Resources
3 Distancing, Shading, and Branding
4 Merroir: Branding and Placing Taste
5 Case Study: Pacific Oysters in Akkeshi, Hokkaido, Japan
5.1 Environmental History of Oysters in Akkeshi
5.2 The Birth and Merroir of Akkeshi-Branded Oysters
5.3 The Merroir of Akkeshi Oysters
6 Discussion
7 Conclusion
References
The Socio-Cultural Reception of MSG (Monosodium Glutamate) in Thailand
1 Introduction
2 History of MSG in Thailand: From Japan to Thailand
3 MSG and Its Affinity to Local Taste System
4 MSG and Its Sweetness
5 MSG as a Commodity
6 Conclusion
References
Social Context of Food
Sharing Food and Conviviality in the Mediterranean Diet. Some Ethnographic Examples
1 The Mediterranean Diet as a Cultural Pattern of Conviviality Promoted by UNESCO
1.1 Introduction
1.2 The Cultural Model of the Mediterranean Diet
1.3 The Discovery of the Mediterranean Way
1.4 The South of Italy
1.5 A Lifestyle from the Past with Benefits for the Future
1.6 Weddings and Conviviality
2 The Neapolitan Christmas Feast: A Case Study
2.1 The Circuit of the Gift of Food in the Neapolitan Christmas Feast
2.2 The Ritual of “Capitone”
2.3 Local Habits and Food Globalization
3 Conclusion
References
Rethinking Foodscapes. Does It Matter How Food Reaches My Plate?
1 Introduction
2 Alternative to What?
3 Anthropology of and with Food Procurement
4 Ferraris and Potlucks
5 Potential and Limits of Local Food
6 Food for Citizenship?
References
Rethinking Family Commensality: Through Japanese Cases and Italian Ones
1 Introduction
2 Close Connection Between Family and Commensality
3 Problems of Commensality Studies
4 Is the Italian Family a Commensality Group?
4.1 My Survey in an Italian Town
4.2 Comparative Discussion of Italian and Japanese Family Meals
5 Family Commensality Myth
6 Ishige’s Research on Japanese Family Meals
7 Discussion
8 Conclusion
References
Ethnicity in Foodscape
The “Making” of Hakka Cuisine: A Case Study for the Formation of Ethnic Food and Its Foodscapes in Southeast China
1 Introduction: What is Hakka Cuisine?
2 The Diversity of Foods and Foodways in Hakka Regions
3 Food Practices in the Hakka Region of Guangdong: 1930s–1970s
4 The Formation of Hakka Food and Its Foodscape: 1960–2010
5 Conclusion: Between the Food Practice and Food Category
References
Tubawan and the Play of Authorial Slippage: The Sani Yi people’s Practice of Hospitality Business and the Making of Indigenous Foodscape
1 Introduction
2 Shilin Tourism: A Brief History
3 Number-Play
4 Wordplay and Authorial Slippage
5 The Question of Green Food Versus Non-green Food
6 “I Laid the Eggs Myself”
7 Is Local Food a Representation of the Local Land?
8 The Use of Earthen Bowls
9 Conclusion and Further Discussion
References
Translocal Foodscapes: Gastronomic Creativity in Mérida, Mexico, and Seville, Spain
1 Introduction: The Changing Foodscape
2 Foodscapes and Innovation
3 A Critical Approach to Innovation
4 Translocal Contexts for Innovation
5 Creativity and Innovation in Seville and Mérida
6 Conclusion: Translocal Foodscapes and Gastronomic Innovation
References
Food and the Nation
The Tea Industry in Modern China and Public Demand for Tea
1 Introduction
2 Economic Reforms and the Tea Industry
3 Rise and Significance of Tea Culture
4 Role of China International Tea Culture Institute (CITCI)
5 From “Wenhua datai jingji changxi” to Poverty Alleviation Project
6 Tea Ceremony
7 Conclusion
References
On the Formation of Chinese National Cuisine: Historical and Anthropological Perspectives
1 Introduction
2 The Historical Development of Chinese Food
3 Development and Historical Geography of Chinese Cuisine
4 The Systemic Traits of Chinese Cuisine
5 The Formation of Regional Foods
6 The Growth of Self-Awareness of Chinese Food
7 The Birth of Tangcai, Zhongguocai, Huacai, and Zhongcan
8 Chinese Food as National Cuisine
9 New Movements in Chinese Cuisine
References
Index