Introduction to Physical Oceanography

Cover......Page 1
book......Page 2
Preface......Page 8
1.1 Physics of the ocean......Page 10
1.2 Goals......Page 11
1.4 The Big Picture......Page 12
1.5 Further Reading......Page 14
2 The Historical Setting......Page 16
2.2 Eras of Oceanographic Exploration......Page 17
2.3 Milestones in the Understanding of the Ocean......Page 21
2.4 Evolution of some Theoretical Ideas......Page 24
2.5 The Role of Observations in Oceanography......Page 25
2.6 Important Concepts......Page 29
3 The Physical Setting......Page 30
3.1 Ocean and Seas......Page 31
3.2 Dimensions of the ocean......Page 32
3.3 Sea-Floor Features......Page 34
3.4 Measuring the Depth of the Ocean......Page 38
3.5 Sea Floor Charts and Data Sets......Page 42
3.6 Sound in the Ocean......Page 43
3.7 Important Concepts......Page 46
4.1 The Earth in Space......Page 48
4.2 Atmospheric Wind Systems......Page 50
4.4 Measurement of Wind......Page 52
4.5 Calculations of Wind......Page 55
4.6 Wind Stress......Page 57
4.7 Important Concepts......Page 58
5.1 The Oceanic Heat Budget......Page 60
5.2 Heat-Budget Terms......Page 62
5.3 Direct Calculation of Fluxes......Page 66
5.4 Indirect Calculation of Fluxes: Bulk Formulas......Page 67
5.5 Global Data Sets for Fluxes......Page 70
5.6 Geographic Distribution of Terms......Page 74
5.7 Meridional Heat Transport......Page 77
5.8 Variations in Solar Constant......Page 79
5.9 Important Concepts......Page 81
6.1 Definition of Salinity......Page 82
6.3 Geographical Distribution......Page 86
6.4 The Oceanic Mixed Layer and Thermocline......Page 90
6.5 Density......Page 92
6.6 Measurement of Temperature......Page 97
6.7 Measurement of Conductivity or Salinity......Page 102
6.9 Temperature and Salinity With Depth......Page 104
6.10 Light in the Ocean and Absorption of Light......Page 106
6.11 Important Concepts......Page 110
7.1 Dominant Forces for Ocean Dynamics......Page 112
7.2 Coordinate System......Page 113
7.3 Types of Flow in the ocean......Page 114
7.4 Conservation of Mass and Salt......Page 115
7.5 The Total Derivative (D/Dt)......Page 116
7.6 Momentum Equation......Page 117
7.7 Conservation of Mass: The Continuity Equation......Page 120
7.8 Solutions to the Equations of Motion......Page 122
7.9 Important Concepts......Page 123
8.1 The Influence of Viscosity......Page 124
8.2 Turbulence......Page 125
8.3 Calculation of Reynolds Stress:......Page 128
8.4 Mixing in the Ocean......Page 132
8.5 Stability......Page 136
8.6 Important Concepts......Page 140
9.1 Inertial Motion......Page 142
9.2 Ekman Layer at the Sea Surface......Page 144
9.3 Ekman Mass Transport......Page 152
9.4 Application of Ekman Theory......Page 154
9.6 Important Concepts......Page 156
10.1 Hydrostatic Equilibrium......Page 160
10.2 Geostrophic Equations......Page 162
10.3 Surface Geostrophic Currents From Altimetry......Page 164
10.4 Geostrophic Currents From Hydrography......Page 167
10.6 Comments on Geostrophic Currents......Page 173
10.7 Currents From Hydrographic Sections......Page 180
10.8 Lagrangian Measurements of Currents......Page 181
10.9 Eulerian Measurements......Page 188
10.10 Important Concepts......Page 189
11.1 Sverdrup's Theory of the Oceanic Circulation......Page 192
11.2 Western Boundary Currents......Page 198
11.3 Munk's Solution......Page 199
11.4 Observed Surface Circulation in the Atlantic......Page 201
11.5 Important Concepts......Page 206
12.1 Definitions of Vorticity......Page 208
12.2 Conservation of Vorticity......Page 211
12.3 Influence of Vorticity......Page 213
12.4 Vorticity and Ekman Pumping......Page 214
12.5 Important Concepts......Page 219
13.1 Defining the Deep Circulation......Page 220
13.2 Importance of the Deep Circulation......Page 221
13.3 Theory for the Deep Circulation......Page 228
13.4 Observations of the Deep Circulation......Page 231
13.5 Antarctic Circumpolar Current......Page 238
13.6 Important Concepts......Page 241
14 Equatorial Processes......Page 244
14.1 Equatorial Processes......Page 245
14.2 El Niño......Page 249
14.3 El Niño Teleconnections......Page 257
14.4 Observing El Niño......Page 259
14.5 Forecasting El Niño......Page 260
14.6 Important Concepts......Page 263
15.1 Introduction--Some Words of Caution......Page 264
15.2 Numerical Models in Oceanography......Page 266
15.3 Global Ocean Models......Page 267
15.4 Coastal Models......Page 271
15.5 Assimilation Models......Page 275
15.6 Coupled Ocean and Atmosphere Models......Page 278
15.7 Important Concepts......Page 281
16.1 Linear Theory of Ocean Surface Waves......Page 282
16.3 Waves and the Concept of a Wave Spectrum......Page 287
16.4 Ocean-Wave Spectra......Page 293
16.5 Wave Forecasting......Page 297
16.6 Measurement of Waves......Page 298
16.7 Important Concepts......Page 301
17.1 Shoaling Waves and Coastal Processes......Page 302
17.2 Tsunamis......Page 306
17.3 Storm Surges......Page 308
17.4 Theory of Ocean Tides......Page 309
17.5 Tidal Prediction......Page 317
17.6 Important Concepts......Page 321
References......Page 322