This edited volume explores how fashion brands deal with legacy by looking at the preservation of heritage and knowledge and how this builds a bridge to the future. Bringing together different reflections from the world of fashion, from gloves to virtual jewels, from luxury brand’s digital narratives to historical contexts, each chapter offers a narrative that is contemporary, yet linked to historical contexts.
With these narratives, the book reveals how innovation builds on heritage, and how locally rooted traditional techniques connect to contemporary global production. It illustrates how ancestral processes renew, encouraging us to produce and consume more responsibly.
Split into three parts, the book firstly covers narrative and knowledge in different contexts before delving in to narrative, brand building and creativity with case studies. The final section centres on digital narratives with new consumers.Ultimately, this book demonstrates that multidisciplinary knowledge of the past is essential to the understanding of the contemporary.
Author(s): Isabel Cantista, Damien Delille
Publisher: Palgrave Macmillan
Year: 2023
Language: English
Pages: 343
City: Cham
Acknowledgments
Contents
Notes on Contributors
List of Figures
List of Tables
1: Introduction: Telling the Story of Fashion Heritage
Material and Immaterial Narratives
Fashion Heritage: A Recent History
The Origins of Considering Heritage in Fashion
The Ambiguous Heritage-Making of Fashion
A Narrative Shift in Fashion Objects
The Structure of Volume: Making the Past Ever Present
References
Part I: Fashion Legacy, Narratives, and Knowledge
2: Fashion Storytelling Through Dress and Lego Mini-Figures: Mary Queen of Scots
Introduction
The Scene
Storyworld and Storytelling
Lego as Playful Story Prop
Story Prop as Fashionable “Aesthetic Third” to Symbolise Experience
Conclusion
References
3: 1980–2020: Fashion Curating and Cultural Policy in Italy
Introduction
1980: An Exhibition to Define a Museum. 1922–1943: Vent’anni di moda italiana at the Poldi Pezzoli
2020: The Exhibition Memos: On Fashion in This Millennium
Conclusions: Forty Years of Fashion Curating
References
4: Back to the Future of Fashion Past: Re-fashioning Future Garment Making
Introduction
Analysis of Material Culture
The Methodology
Stage 1: Description
Stage 2: Deduction
Stage 3: Speculation
Notes on Applying the Analysis
The Case Studies
Case Study 1 Mrs Guiney’s Gown
Garment Analysis
Hypothesis
Design and Construct: The Practice-Led Stage of Research
Contemporary Explorations: Extracted Techniques for Contemporary Garments 1 and 2 (CG1 and CG2)
Colour Decisions
Construction of Garments
The Make-Do and Mend Dress: Case Study 2
Constructing the Jacket
Re-fashioning My Grandmother’s Dress
Evaluating the Methodology and Design Process
Outline of the Workshops
Outcomes
MA Fashion Futures
MA Pattern Cutting and Garment Technology
Conclusion
References
5: Crafting Communities: A Haven for Escapism and Wellbeing
Introduction
Background Context
Crafting
Theory of Globalised Production
Social Brand Engagement Theory
Methodology: A Social Constructivist Exploration of Community Formation
Findings
Community Constructs
Commutuality Within a Crafting Community
Creativity and Self-Care
Wider Society
Relevance for Theory and Practice
References
Part II: Fashion Narratives, Brands, and Creativity
6: The Heritage-Making of Fashion Brands
7: The History of the Luxury Glove: Tangible and Intangible Cultural Fashion Heritage from the Nineteenth Century to the Twenty-First Century
Introduction
The Popularisation of the Glove Through History Linked to Clothing Fashion (Nineteenth Century, First Half of the Twentieth Century)
The Glove, an Indispensable Product in Nineteenth-Century High Society
A Product That Is Becoming More Popular
From Production to Fashion: A Variety of Models (1870s–1940s)
Behind the Scenes of Fashion: The Environmental Impact of Production
An Activity That Generates Environmental Pollution
Thinking About a more Sustainable Leather Industry from the End of the Twentieth Century Onwards
Acting for a More Sustainable Industry in the Twenty-First Century
Gloves: Between Art Object, Heritage and the Fashion of Tomorrow
A Product Neglected in Post-war Society
The Artistic Dimension of Gloves
A Cultural Asset That Contributes to the Renewal of Fashion
Conclusion
References
Printed Sources
8: Heritage and Contemporary Children’s Fashion: Case Study: The Repositioning of the Socio-cultural Values of the Brand Jacadi Paris (2006–2010)
Introduction
Nostalgia and Transmission in Contemporary Children’s Fashion
Heritage Brands: A Trend or a Characteristic of the Childrenswear Market?
Tradition, Transmission and Narration: The Core Features of a Heritage Brand
Towards a Pretend Heritage: Methodology
The Pretend Story: Which Story to Tell?
Questionnaire de Proust: Drawing the Portrait of the Brand
Object-Based Research: From the Archives to the Shop: ‘les Emblématiques’
Visual Analysis
Telling the Story: The Role of the Visual Communication
Spreading the Word: Training of the Collaborators of the Brand
Conclusion: A Story to Be Continued …
References
Websites
9: The Fourth Space: Fashion Branding and Café-Restaurant Projects
Introduction
Fashion at the Top Table
Fashion and Food
Consuming Space
Beyond the Third Space
Instagram and Table Manners
Theorizing the Fourth Space
Conclusion: Fashion Beyond Clothing
References
Part III: Digital Narratives and New Consumers
10: Investigating the Use of Digital Technology in Jewellery Design: A Thematic Analysis
Introduction
Methodology
Analysis
Phase 1: Become Familiar with the Data
Phase 2: Generating Initial Codes
Phase 3: Search for Themes
Phase 4: Reviewing Themes
Phase 5: Define Themes
Conclusion
References
11: Fashion as Leisure: Experience and Entertainment Through Brands’ Digital Narratives
Introduction
Fashion as Seen Behind the Scenes: Unveiling the Performance
Fashion and Noble Culture: A Discrete Consumption of Leisure
Fashion and Popular Culture: The Illusion of a Democratization of Luxurious Brands
Conclusion
References
Videos and Podcasts Consulted
12: Second-Hand History and Algorithms: The Case of Sellpy
Introduction
From Sellers to Buyers. The Origin of the Second-Hand Market and Its Development Online
Sustainability and the Circular Economy
IT: Algorithms, Machine Learning, Influencers
When Sustainability Meets IT: Sellpy and the Marketing of Reselling
Conclusion
References
13: Conclusion
Fashion Narratives in the Covid-19 Context
Preserving World Heritage Through a Sustainable Economy
References
Index
