Fashion and Feeling: The Affective Politics of Dress explores the complex nexus of fashion and the feeling body from a variety of critical perspectives across fashion studies, anthropology, sociology, design practice, and media studies. It asks such questions as: What does fashion look and feel like in an age dominated by amplified anxiety, isolation, depression, and precariousness? How are feelings woven into clothing and mobilized through fashion practices in ways that might sustain living with a sense of ongoing crisis? Does fashion have the potential to help us reimagine new lifeworlds which might be reinvigorating? In other words, how is fashion engaging with the “bad,” the “good,” and the ambivalent feelings associated with our personal and collective histories, with our troubled political present, and with our imagined future? Despite such diverse and scattered contributions, the potentialities of “feeling” for the study of fashion are still largely neglected. This edited volume seeks to tease out possible avenues of investigation of the clothed body and its representations through the lens of feeling.
Author(s): Roberto Filippello, Ilya Parkins
Series: Palgrave Studies in Fashion and the Body
Publisher: Palgrave Macmillan
Year: 2023
Language: English
Pages: 343
City: Cham
Contents
Notes on Contributors
List of Figures
Chapter 1: Introduction
On Terminology: “Affect,” “Feeling,” “Emotion”
Affect Theories
Feeling Clothes, Enclothing Feelings
Structure of the Book
References
Part I: Feeling Wardrobe Histories
Chapter 2: Closet Feelings
References
Chapter 3: Militarized Comfort: How to Feel Naked While Wearing Clothes
Wartime Comfort
Post-WWII Comfort
Ordinary Comfort
References
Chapter 4: Costume Design and Emotional Communication in 1940s British Cinema
Ealing Studios and the Changing Relationship Between Audiences and Film Fashions in Post-war British Cinema
Hue and Cry: Negotiating the Morality of Desire and Consumption at a Time of Austerity
Passport to Pimlico: Navigating Conflicted Emotions Through Out-of-Place Clothes
Conclusions
References
Chapter 5: Can Fashion Feel?
The Work and Care of Biotic Clothing
An Uneasy Dress
Conclusion
References
Part II: Reparative Fashion
Chapter 6: Designing Clothes for and from Love: Disability Justice and Fashion Hacking
Cripping Love
Love Through Fashion Hacking
Centring Collective Access
Sharing Knowledge and Resources
Holding Intersectional Disabled Stories
Self-reflection and Accountability
Fashion Hacking as Multidirectional Community Love Practice
References
Chapter 7: Beading Is Medicine: Beading as Therapeutic and Decolonial Practice
A Common Denominator: Beadwork
Beading Decolonial Space into Existence
Beadwork as a Fashion Practice?
Beading as Medicine During the Covid-19 Pandemic
References
Chapter 8: All that Cloth Can Carry (on a Queer Body)
Acknowledgement of Country
Guidance for the Reader
Introduction
Mauri and Aliveness in Fashion
Stitching Queer Grief and Trauma
Stitching Queer Loss
Conclusion: Stitches to Come
References
Chapter 9: Looking Like a Woman, Feeling Like a Woman, Sensing the Self: Affective and Emotional Dimensions of Dress Therapy
Introduction
The Impossibility and Indignity of Writing About Other People’s (Vestimentary) Feelings: A Methodological Disclaimer
‘Looking, Feeling, Acting Very Much Better’: Therapy of Fashion
‘If It Can Make Girls Like Me Feel Better About Themselves It Must Be a Good Thing’: Vêtothérapie
‘It Is a Feeling of Security.’: Sensory Stimulation Treatment
Conclusion
References
Author Interviews
Part III: Stasis and Transformation in Fashion
Chapter 10: Dirty Pretty Things: Stains, Ambivalence and the Traces of Feeling
Ambivalent Objects: A Stain and a Dress
A Stain on a Dress: Matter, Ambivalence and Shame
A Stained Dress: Present Pasts and Things Between Two Times
Capturing Stains
Conclusion
References
Chapter 11: Making Peace Sensational: Design for the Nobel Prizes
Promoting Swedish Design
Sustaining Feelings
Fashion Modelling, Climate Modelling
References
Chapter 12: Glamour Magick, Affective Witchcraft, and Occult Fashion-abilities
Magick, Glamour, and the World of Appearances
The Energies of Life
Glamour Witches and the Magick of Fashion
Minding and Embodying Occult Fashion-abilities
References
Chapter 13: Fashion Studies at a Turning Point
Digging Deeper into Subjectivity
The Mirror and the Visual Construction of Subjectivity
Clothing the Body/Self
Through Multisensoriality into the Affects
Concluding Remarks
References
Part IV: Affective Embodiment in Media
Chapter 14: Melancholy Fashion Moods in Aotearoa New Zealand
Inherited Mood-Worlds
Underlying Moodiness
Fashioning Cultural Moods
Conclusion
References
Chapter 15: On Boredom and Contemporary Fashion Photography
References
Chapter 16: Hair Dressing: Fetish, School Uniforms and Shōjo in Cocoon, Entwined
The Meanings of Dress in Manga
Cocoon, Entwined
Shōjo and Emotion
Shōjo and the School Uniform
Weaving Hair, Dress and the Body
School Uniform as a Memory and Fetish Object
Conclusion
References
Chapter 17: “What’s Getting Us Through”: Grazia UK as Affective Intimate Public During the Coronavirus Pandemic
Grazia as Intimate Public
Feelgood Fashion
We’re in This Together
Keep Shallow and Carry On
References
Chapter 18: Afterword
References
Index
