Big, high routes at the edge of a climber's ability are not the places for inventing technique or relying on old habits. Complacency can lead to fatal errors. So where does the hard-core aspirant or dreamer turn? The only master class in print, Extreme Alpinism delivers an expert dose of reality and practical techniques for advanced climbers. Focusing on how top alpine climbers approach the world's most difficult routes, Twight centers his instruction on the ethos of climbing the hardest routes with the least amount of gear and the most speed. Throughout, Twight makes it clear that the two things he refuses to compromise are safety and his climbing ethics. In addition to the extensive chapters on advanced techniques and skills, Twight also discusses mental preparedness and attitude; strength and cardiovascular training; good nutrition; and tips on equipment and clothing. Illustrated throughout with full-color photos.
Author(s): Mark F. Twight, James Martin
Edition: 1st
Publisher: The Mountaineers
Year: 1999
Language: English
Pages: 238
Tags: Физическая культура и спорт;Альпинизм;
Front Cover......Page 1
Contents......Page 6
Foreword......Page 8
Preface......Page 12
Introduction......Page 14
PART I : APPROACH......Page 17
1 Attitude and Character......Page 18
-- Failure --......Page 26
PART II : TRAINING......Page 28
2 Psychological Training......Page 29
3 Physical Training : A Foundation......Page 36
4 Training : Strength......Page 40
5 Training : Endurance......Page 45
-- Alpine Solo - John Bouchard --......Page 59
6 Nutrition......Page 62
-- Mistake on Mount Huntington --......Page 75
PART III : EQUIPMENT......Page 77
7 Clothing......Page 78
-- Deprivation on Mount Hunter --......Page 94
-- Light and Fast --......Page 96
-- A Simple Mistake --......Page 99
8 Gear......Page 100
-- Why Helmets are a Good Idea --......Page 114
-- When Maps Lie --......Page 116
9 Protection......Page 117
PART IV ; TECHNIQUE......Page 132
10 Staying Alive......Page 133
11 Partners......Page 146
-- Khan Tengri Partner : A Cautionary Tale --......Page 150
12 Going Up......Page 153
-- Resourcefulness --......Page 179
13 Bivouacs......Page 180
-- Ordeal on Everest --......Page 193
-- A Lowe Night --......Page 195
-- A 43-Hour Day : Mount Hunter : May 17 - 19 1994......Page 198
14 Going Down......Page 200
-- Alone on The Charmoz --......Page 209
-- Annapurna Epic --......Page 211
-- Down the Rupal Face --......Page 213
Apologia......Page 217
Thanks......Page 220
Appendix 1 - Audacity......Page 222
Appendix 2 - Suggested Reading......Page 227
Index......Page 230
