Bringing together a wealth of primary sources and with contributions from leading experts, Dress History of Korea presents the most recent approaches to the interpretation of dress and fashion of Korea. Through close analysis of visual, written, and material sources-some newly excavated or recently re-discovered in global museums-the book reveals how dress and adornment evolved from the period of state formation to the modern era.
Authors with a range of academic and curatorial experience discuss the close relation of dress and adornments to the socio-political and cultural history of Korea and place the dress history of Korea within broader contexts in studies of fashion, material culture, museology, and costume design. As in other cultures, modern Korean fashion owes many of its styles to historic dress and this process of adaptation is explored within high fashion and popular culture contexts in ways that benefit historians, curators, and designers alike. With key materials newly available to global readers, Dress History of Korea is the indispensable guide to the study of Korean dress and fashion.
Author(s): Kyunghee Pyun, Minjee Kim
Publisher: Bloomsbury Visual Arts
Year: 2023
Language: English
Pages: 363
City: London
Cover
Halftitle page
Title page
Copyright page
Contents
Illustrations
Contributors
Foreword
Acknowledgments
Notes on the Usage of the Korean Language
1 Making Dress History in the Context of Primary Sources
Introduction
Dress History in Europe and North America: Pedagogy and Historiography
Dress History in Contemporary Korea: Historiography
Dress History for the Theatrical Design Industry
Primary Sources for Korean Dress History
A Note on Terminology
Part One Primary Sources: Historiography and Chronological Reviews
2 Identity and Fashion in the Ancient Dress of Korea
Sources
Methodological Contemplation
3 Goryeo (918–1392): Dress in Literature, Bulbokjang, and Visual Arts
Literary Sources and Their Propositions
Clothing and Textiles from Bulbokjang 佛復藏
Visual Representations of Dressed Figures
Conclusion: Outlook on Future Research
4 Reading Fashion of Joseon (1392–1910): Textual Sources with Clothing Illustrations
Government Publications (官撰本)
Official Documents (古文書)
Literati Anthologies and Other Private Literary Works
Encyclopedias and Monographs
Travelogues and Foreign-language Textbooks
Conclusion: Notes on Interpretation of the Sources
5 Scholarly Discourses on Fashion Change in Late Joseon
Transformation of Scholarly Discourses in Late Joseon
Late Joseon Scholarly Writings on Dress: Yi Sugwang,Yi Ik, and Jo Jaesam
Commenting on New Fashion: “Bizarre/Demonic Style”
Women Writers on Clothing in the Late Joseon
6 Joseon Portraiture Paintings for Dress and Fashion
Introduction
Standards of Joseon Painting as Sources of Dress History
Assessing Pictorial Representation of Dresses in Joseon Portraiture
7 Bodily Ornaments in Korean Archaeology and Dress History
Introduction
A Confucian Discourse on Luxurious Ornaments
Archaeological Artifacts as Ornaments
Overcoming Hwang Hogeun’s The Study on Art of Korean Ornaments
Conclusion
8 Shift of Worldview: Changes of Dress in Korea, 1870s–1910s
From the Opening of the Ports in 1876 to the Gapsin Dress Reform in 1884
Gapsin Dress Reform in 1884
Gabo and Eulmi Dress Reforms (1894–5)
Korean Empire (1897–1910)
9 Magazines and Photographs for Fashion History of Korea
Methodological Issues
Korean Women’s Magazines
Case Study on New Everyday Clothing
Fashion Magazines in Korea
Conclusion
Part Two Case Studies: Museum Practice, Tourism, and Costume Design
10 Chulto boksik (Excavated Dress) and the Collection at Chungbuk National University Museum
Clothing and Textiles Retrieved from LSMB Tombs
Dress Collection at the Chungbuk National University Museum
Wonsam, Dang-ui, Jang-ui in the Neo-Confucian Discourses
Wonsam: Diverged from Dallyeong
Dang-ui: Invented for Modesty?
Jang-ui: From Coat to Veil
Conclusion: Fashion as Embodied Practice of Neo-Confucian Ideology
11 Collection and Exhibition of Dress at the Seok Juseon Memorial Museum
Seok Juseon’s Dress Collection and Affiliation with Dankook University
The Acquisition
Annual Exhibitions and Symposia
The Excavated Shrouds (1981 and 1982)
Jeogori & Chima of the Joseon Dynasty (1997)
Dress from the Tomb of Jeong On (1481–1538) (1998)
Traditional Dress from the Northern Provinces of Korea (1998)
Traditional Children’s Dress (2000)
Dress from the Royal Tombs of Yi Heonchung (1505–1603) and Lady Kim (2019)
Exhibitions Overseas and Online
Conclusion
12 Acquisition of a Replica and Identification of Mystery Items: Case Studies in Scotland
Commissioning a Joseon Military Uniform at the National Museum of Scotland
Identifying Mystery Pieces at Perth Museum and Art Gallery
Conclusion
13 Hanbok and Korean Identity: An Anthropological View
Dress as Material Culture and Human Experience
Collection and Display in the Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver, Canada
Shifting Cultural Conceptions from Unique to Distinctive
Hanbok in Modern Tourism and Street Fashion
Conclusion
14 Costuming Korean Period Dramas
Introduction
Costuming Korean Historical Drama: Between Historical Accuracy and Theatrical Effect
Three Case Studies
Conclusion
Selected Bibliography
Index
