This edited book brings together new perspectives on fashion, the body, and politics. The intention of this collection is to explore the cultural intersection between bodies, fashion, and transgression, often in the most unlikely of locations. Bodies are political players in culture and the authors gathered here ask a range of pressing questions. What role do fashioned bodies play in resistance, in meeting governmental boundaries or institutional power? Arguably, fashion is an aspect of modern warfare and style can defend and attack in cultural space. So, how do fashioned bodies occupy the grey area between social control and the resistance to power? This book is interdisciplinary and international, with contributors situated within a broad range of disciplines including Art History and Critical Practice, Cultural Studies, Fashion Critical Studies, Film and Literary Studies, Performance Studies, Politics and International Studies, Sociology, Gender, Queer, LGBTI, and Critical Race Studies.
Author(s): Royce Mahawatte, Jacki Willson
Series: Palgrave Studies in Fashion and the Body
Publisher: Palgrave Macmillan
Year: 2023
Language: English
Pages: 243
City: Cham
Acknowledgements
Contents
Notes on Contributors
List of Figures
Chapter 1: Introduction: Fashion, Bodies, Transgression
Thinking about Dangerous Bodies
Origins of the Collection
Overview
Bibliography
Part I: Dangerous Surfaces
Chapter 2: Cardi B’s Nails: Contagion and the Excess of Gender, Race and Commodity
Introduction
Manicured Fists Raised
Clawing Her Way to the Top. Cardi’s Nail Habitus
The Social Value of a Manicure
Racialized Sleights of Hand
“Black Ladies” and “Video Vixens” in the White World
Cardi’s Dis-Respectability
Bibliography
Tracks
Chapter 3: “Let Me Be Your Stimy Toy”: Fashioning Disability, Cripping Fashion
Introduction
From Disability Studies to Crip Theory
Enfreakment
Mainstreaming
Disability Aesthetics
Crip Aesthetics?
Conclusion
Bibliography
Chapter 4: “Under False Colors”: Nineteenth-Century Masquerading Laws and Black Disabled Transgender Embodiment in Post-Civil War Memphis
Introduction: “Unlosing” Frances Thompson
Brief Snapshots of Frances Thompson in 1866 and 1876
Claiming Citizenship, Claiming Womanhood: Black Women Speaking Out Against White Brutality
Frances Thompson’s Illegal Clothing
Conclusion: Frances Thompson’s Legacy
Bibliography
Chapter 5: ‘One Club Fits All’: Male Embodiment in an Age of Homonormativity
‘The Cult of the Body and Other Games of Appearance’: Embodied Perspectives on the Gay Male Body
“One Size Fits All”: The Figure of the Bear
Homonormativity, Homonationalism and the Repeating Fashioned Body
Conclusion
Bibliography
Part II: Fashion and Spatial Transgression
Chapter 6: The Politicisation of Palestinian Embroidery Since 1948
Introduction
Embroidery Before the Nakba
The Politicisation of Embroidery
Palestinian Embroidery and Resistance
Conclusion
Bibliography
Chapter 7: Polish “Black Protests”: Political Dress and the Politics of Fashion
Polish “Black Protests”: Dangerous Protesting Bodies
War-Related Colours and Objects
New Logic of the Protest
Fashioning Protest, Brand Activism and Politics of Fashion
Social Media Posts Analysed in the Article
Bibliography
Chapter 8: Performative Elegance: The Windrush Generation, Fashion and the Politics of Respectability
Introduction
Plantation Respectability
The Subaltern Black Body
Religion, Class and Dress
Conclusion
Bibliography
Part III: Embodiment and Abstract Boundaries
Chapter 9: Non-Norm-(Hard)-Core: Hood by Air’s Porn Archive
Marching Through the Trenches of Desire: Playing with Pornographic Realness
Porno-Chic and the Fashion Image or Fashion as Body Genre
Mute Disorientation: The Difficulty of Speaking Sex
Bibliography
Chapter 10: Consuming (beyond Plain) Vanilla: “Straight” Coupledom and Illicit Performativities on Popular Culture TV Show Love Island
Introduction
Heterosex and Coercion
Heterosex, Violence and Consent
Conclusion
Bibliography
Chapter 11: Terrifying Beauty: Theatrical Self-Performance in Leonor Fini’s Art and Life
Performing the Self/Affecting the Audience—An Introduction (Fig. 11.1)
The Beauty and Power of Animals
Subjugating Gazes
Terrifying Beauty
Le Beau Monstre
Bibliography
Index
