Based on twelve months of in-depth ethnographic research in Japan with retailers, customers, wholesalers, writers and craftspeople, Selling the Kimono is a journey behind the scenes of a struggle to adapt to difficult economic conditions and declining demand for the kimono.
The kimono is an iconic piece of clothing, instantly recognised as a symbol of traditional Japanese culture. Yet, little is known about the industry that makes and sells the kimono, in particular the crisis this industry is currently facing. Since the 1970s, kimono sales have dropped dramatically, craftspeople are struggling to find apprentices, and retailers have closed up shop.
Illuminating recent academic investigations into the lived experience of economic crisis, this volume presents a story of an industry in crisis, and the narratives of hope, creativity and resilience that have emerged in response. The ethnographic depth and theoretical contribution to understanding the effects of economic crisis and the transformation of traditional culture will be of broad interest to students, academics and the general public.
Author(s): Julie Valk
Series: Routledge Advances in Ethnography
Publisher: Routledge
Year: 2021
Language: English
Pages: 180
City: London
Cover
Half Title
Series Information
Title Page
Copyright Page
Dedication
Table of Contents
Figures
Preface
Acknowledgements
A Note on Japanese Orthography and Names
A Note on Website Links and Currency Conversions
Chapter 1 Kimono in Crisis?: The Paradox of Contemporary kimono Culture
A Morning in April
An Afternoon in March
The Kimono Paradox
Crisis and Hope
Clothing and Anthropology: a New Focus
Methods and Field Sites
Structure of the Volume
Notes
References
Chapter 2 The Kimono and the Kimono Industry
A Conversation Between Cloth, Body and Skill: Getting Dressed in Kimono
Kyoko’s Kimono and Accessories
Situating the Kimono in the Anthropology of Clothing: the kimono as Dressed Practice and Communication
Historical Development of the Kimono
‘Separation From the Kimono’ in the Late 20th Century
The Kimono Retail Industry
Historical Development: a Long-Standing Connection With wealth and Luxury
Structure of the Kimono Retail Industry
Notes
References
Chapter 3 The Rise of the Formal Kimono in the Post-War Years: Selling Status and Commercialising Knowledge
Silk, Luxury and Formal Wear: Exploring the Industry’s Formal Kimono Strategy in the Post-War Years
The Commercialisation of Knowledge
Post-war Markets for Formal Kimono: Women, family and the Bridal Trousseau
Notes
References
Chapter 4 The Path of Resilience: Weathering the Economic Crisis and Managing Public Perceptions
Economic Crisis and Resilience in Japan
Why the Idea of ‘Scary’ Kimono Shops Exists
Notes
References
Chapter 5 Azumaya: The ‘nail That Stuck Up so Far that no One Could Hammer It Down’
Re-invent the Business, Re-Invent Yourself: Re-Invent-shibakawa-San’s Journey to Transform Azumaya
‘Sticking Out’ to Beat the Crisis: Being Different as a Means for Success
The Happiness Factor
The Fashion Kimono
Collaboration, Cooperation and Creativity
The Hands-On Approach
Communication and Connection: Internet TV Broadcasts
A ‘Tasty’ Shop: Place-Making and Azumaya As home and Community
Notes
References
Chapter 6 The Kimono As Fashion: Lifestyle, Taste and Individuated Consumption
The Making of the Kimono Fashion Network: Social Media and a Meeting of Minds in a Time of Crisis
Ima Kikuchi
Kōichi Fujii
Individuated Consumption and Generational Change in Japan: Putting the Innovators of the Kimono fashion Network Into Context
Our Kimono ‘laifu’: Consumption, Taste and Sociality in the Kimono Fashion Network
Notes
References
Chapter 7 New Directions: Second-Hand Retail and New Business Models
Something for Everyone: the Appeal of second-Hand Kimono
Doing It All at SomeKōbō Yu
Notes
References
Chapter 8 Crisis and Hope Interwoven: The Future of the Kimono Industry
Questioning Crisis
Crisis and Time, Crisis Over Time
Crisis, Hope and Creativity
A Fit for the Future? The Role of the Kimono in 21st Century Japan
Note
References
Glossary of Japanese Terms
Index
