Principles of Textile Printing

Cover
Half Title
Series
Title
Copyright
Contents
Preface
Author Biography
Chapter 1 Introduction to Textile Printing
1.1 Textiles – Historical Perspective
1.2 Primitive Colorants
1.3 Textile Coloration
1.4 Textile Dyeing and Printing
1.5 Textile Printing in Historical Perspective
1.6 Preparation of Materials
1.7 Methods and Styles of Printing
1.7.1 Methods of Printing
1.7.1.1 Hand Block Printing
1.7.1.2 Roller Printing
1.7.1.3 Stencil Printing
1.7.1.4 Screen Printing
1.7.2 Manual or Hand Screen Printing
1.7.3 Flatbed Machine
1.7.4 Rotary Screen Printing Machine
1.7.4.1 Transfer Printing
1.7.4.2 Digital Printing
1.7.4.3 Market Share
1.8 Styles of Printing
Chapter 2 Preparatory Processes Before Printing
2.1 Introduction
2.2 Aims of Preparatory Processes
2.3 Preparatory Processes
2.4 Preparation of Cotton Materials
2.4.1 Inspection and Mending
2.4.2 Shearing and Cropping
2.4.3 Singeing Process
2.4.4 Desizing Process
2.4.5 Scouring of Cotton
2.4.6 Scouring of Wool
2.4.7 Scouring of Silk
2.4.8 Scouring of Synthetic Fibers
2.4.9 Mercerization
2.4.10 Heat-Setting
2.5 Bleaching
2.5.1 Reductive Bleaching Agents
2.5.2 Oxidative Bleaching Agents
2.5.2.1 Peroxide Bleaching
2.5.2.2 Strength of Hydrogen Peroxide
2.5.2.3 Bleaching Action
2.5.2.4 Continuous Process
2.5.2.5 Enzymatic Processes
2.6 Combined Scouring and Bleaching of Cotton
2.7 Combined Preparatory Processes
2.8 Effects of Pretreatment on Printing
2.9 Preparation of Protein Fibers
2.10 Preparation of Synthetic Materials
2.11 Future Trends
Chapter 3 Dyes and Auxiliaries for Textile Printing
3.1 Introduction
3.2 Chemical Classification of Colorants
3.2.1 Classification According to the Chemical Constitution
3.2.2 Classification According to the Method of Application
3.2.2.1 Direct Dyes
3.2.2.2 Acid Dyes (Including Metal-Complex Acid Dyes)
3.2.2.3 Basic or Cationic Dyes
3.2.2.4 Mordant Dyes
3.2.2.5 Azoic Dyes
3.2.2.6 Antidiazotates
3.2.2.7 Diazoamino Compounds
3.2.2.8 Sulfur Dyes
3.2.2.9 Vat Dyes
3.2.2.10 Solubilized Vat Dyes
3.2.2.11 Reactive Dyes
3.2.2.12 Nucleophile Substitution
3.2.2.13 Nucleophilic Addition
3.2.2.14 Disperse Dyes
3.2.2.15 Azo Disperse Dyes
3.2.2.16 Nitrodiphenylamine Disperse Dyes
3.2.2.17 Anthraquinone Disperse Dyes
3.2.2.18 Methine (Styryl) Disperse Dyes
3.2.2.19 Heterocyclic Disperse Dyes
3.2.2.20 Pigment Colors
3.2.2.21 Mineral Colors
3.2.2.22 Cellulosic (Cotton and Viscose)
3.2.2.23 Cellulosic (Jute)
3.2.2.24 Protein (Wool, Silk, Nylon)
3.2.2.25 Synthetic Fibers (Polyester, Cellulose Acetate, and, Less Commonly, Nylon)
3.2.2.26 Other Synthetic Fibers (Acrylic and Modacrylic)
3.3 Color Fastness Properties
3.3.1 Washing Fastness
3.3.2 Light Fastness
3.3.3 Rubbing Fastness
3.3.4 Perspiration Fastness
3.3.5 Fastness to Peroxide Bleaching
3.3.6 Fastness to Dry Heat
3.4 Toxicity of Dyes
3.5 Selection of Dyes for Printing
3.5.1 Advantages of Pigment Printing
3.6 Textile Auxiliaries
3.6.1 Thickening Agents
3.6.1.1 Natural Thickeners
3.6.1.2 Modified Natural Thickeners
3.6.1.3 Gums
3.6.1.4 Gum Tragacanth or Gum Dragon
3.6.1.5 Gum Senegal or Gum Arabic
3.6.1.6 Gum Karaya
3.6.1.7 Guar Gum
3.6.1.8 Locust Bean Gum
3.6.1.9 Gum from Neem/Babul/Moringa
3.6.1.10 Acacia Nilotica Gum
3.6.1.11 Moringa Oleifera Gum
3.6.1.12 Modified Starches
3.6.1.13 Cellulose Derivatives
3.6.1.14 Methyl Cellulose
3.6.1.15 Sodium Carboxy Methyl Cellulose (CMC)
3.6.1.16 Sodium Alginate
3.6.1.17 Emulsion Thickeners
3.6.1.18 Synthetic Thickeners
3.6.1.19 Non-Ionic Thickeners
3.6.1.20 Anionic Thickener
3.6.1.21 Dispersed Liquid Thickeners
3.6.1.22 Thickeners for Printing Reactive Dyes
3.6.2 Wetting Agent
3.6.3 Hygroscopic Agent
3.6.4 Dispersing Agents
3.6.5 Fixation Accelerators
3.6.6 Antifoaming Agent
3.6.7 Oxidizing and Reducing Agents
3.6.8 Binders
3.6.9 Carriers and Swelling Agents
3.6.10 After-Washing Agents
3.6.11 Mordants
3.7 Environmental Aspects
3.7.1 Solvent-Based Inks
3.7.2 Water-Based Inks
3.7.3 Traditional (Air Dry) Ink
3.7.4 Discharge Ink
3.7.5 Plastisol Inks
3.8 Future Trends
Chapter 4 Various Means of Printing Textiles
4.1 Introduction
4.1.1 Styles of Printing
4.2 Direct Style of Printing
4.3 Discharge Style of Printing
4.3.1 White Discharge
4.3.2 Color Discharge
4.4 Resist Style
4.4.1 Batik Printing
4.4.2 Tie and Dye Style
4.5 Spray Printing
4.6 Flock Style of Printing
4.6.1 Methods of Flock Application
4.6.1.1 Spraying by Compressed Air
4.6.1.2 Shaking Process
4.6.1.3 The Electrostatic Method
4.6.1.4 Flock Transfer
4.6.1.5 Flock Adhesives
4.6.1.6 Electrostatic System
4.6.1.7 Hand-Held Units
4.7 Burn-Out or Devoré Style of Printing
4.8 Crepon or Crimp Style of Printing
4.9 Emboss Style of Printing
4.9.1 Blind Emboss
4.9.2 Tint Emboss
4.9.3 Single Level Emboss
4.9.4 Multilevel Emboss
4.9.5 Printed Emboss
4.9.6 Registered Emboss
4.9.7 Glazing
4.10 Transfer Printing
4.10.1 Classification
4.10.2 Sublimation Transfer Printing
4.10.3 Wet Transfer Printing Process
4.10.4 Melt Transfer
4.10.5 Film Release
4.10.6 Merits/Drawbacks of Sublimation Transfer Printing
4.10.7 Selection of Dyes for Transfer Printing
4.10.8 Selection of Paper
4.10.9 Transfer Paper Printing
4.10.10 Print Paste for Paper Printing
4.10.11 Transfer Printing on Nylon
4.10.12 Transfer Printing on Polyester
4.10.13 Transfer Printing on Acrylic
4.10.14 Cotton and Cotton/PE Blends
4.11 Digital Printing Style
4.12 Space Dyeing
4.12.1 Knit-Deknit Method
4.12.2 Space Dyeing of Warp
4.12.3 Space Dyeing of Hanks
4.12.4 Space Dyeing on Wound Packages
4.12.5 Space Dyeing of Tufted Carpets, Knitted and Woven Fabrics
4.13 Future Trends
Chapter 5 Direct, Discharge and Resist Styles of Printing
5.1 Introduction
5.2 Direct Style of Printing of Cellulosic Materials
5.2.1 Printing with Pigment Colors
5.2.1.1 Binder
5.2.1.2 Crosslinking
5.2.1.3 Thickeners
5.2.1.4 Mode of Action
5.2.1.5 Printing Process
5.2.1.6 Fashion Printing
5.2.1.7 White Pigment Printing (Khadi Printing)
5.2.1.8 Typical Recipe
5.2.1.9 Mica (Pearl) Printing
5.2.1.10 Print Paste Recipe
5.2.1.11 Rubber/Puff/Foam/Emboss Printing
5.2.1.12 Glitter Printing
5.2.1.13 Metal Powder Printing
5.2.1.14 Foil Printing
5.2.2 Printing with Reactive Dyes
5.2.2.1 Fabric Pretreatment
5.2.2.2 Choice of Thickener
5.2.2.3 Printing Methods with Reactive Dyes
5.2.2.4 Washing-Off of Reactive Prints
5.2.2.5 Preparation of Stock Paste
5.2.3 Printing with Vat Dyes
5.2.3.1 Mixed Thickeners May Give Better Prints
5.2.4 Printing with Solubilized Vat Dyes
5.2.5 Printing with Azoic Colors
5.2.5.1 Fixation Processes
5.2.5.1.1 Rapid Fast Colors
5.2.5.1.2 Rapidogen Colors
5.3 Direct Style of Printing of Silk and Wool
5.3.1 Surface Chlorination of Wool Fabric
5.3.2 Selection of Dyes
5.3.3 Printing Components
5.3.3.1 Solvents, Solution Aids and Humectants
5.3.3.2 pH Controlling Agents
5.3.3.3 Mild Oxidizing Agent
5.3.3.4 Thickeners
5.3.3.5 Defoamers
5.3.3.5.1 Steaming
5.3.4 Printing with Acid Dyes
5.3.5 Printing with Metal-Complex Dyes
5.3.5.1 Process Sequence: Same as Acid Dyes
5.3.6 Printing with Reactive Dyes
5.3.6.1 Process Sequence: Same as Acid Dyes
5.4 Direct Style of Printing on Nylon
5.4.1 Printing Ingredients
5.4.1.1 Dyes
5.4.1.2 Thickeners
5.4.1.3 Solvents
5.4.1.4 Swelling Agents
5.4.1.5 Acid Liberating Agents
5.4.2 Printing Methods
5.4.2.1 Printing Method with Acid or Metal Complex Dye
5.4.3 Printing with Disperse Dye
5.4.3.1 Printing with Reactive Dye
5.5 Direct Style of Printing on Polyester
5.5.1 Dye Selection
5.5.2 Print Paste Formulation
5.5.3 Printing Ingredients
5.5.3.1 Dyes
5.5.3.2 Thickeners
5.5.3.3 Dispersing Agent
5.5.3.4 Wetting Agent or Solvent
5.5.3.5 Acid
5.5.3.6 Acid Liberating Agent
5.5.3.7 Oxidizing Agent
5.5.3.8 Carriers and Accelerators
5.6 Direct Style of Printing on Acrylic
5.6.1 Ingredients
5.6.1.1 Dyes
5.6.1.2 Thickeners
5.6.1.3 Swelling Agent
5.6.1.4 Wetting Agent or Solvent
5.6.1.5 Acid
5.6.1.6 Oxidizing Agent
5.6.2 Printing Method
5.7 Resist Style of Printing
5.8 Discharge Style of Printing
5.8.1 Discharge Printing of Cellulosic Materials
5.8.2 Discharge Printing of Silk and Wool
5.8.2.1 Reducing Agents
5.8.2.2 Discharge Style with Acid Dyes
5.8.3 Discharge and Discharge-Resist Processes on Polyester Fiber
5.9 Future Trends
Chapter 6 Manual Printing Methods
6.1 Introduction
6.1.1 Block Printing
6.1.2 Perrotine Printing
6.1.3 Stencil Printing
6.1.4 Roller Printing
6.1.5 Flatbed Screen Printing
6.1.6 Rotary Screen Printing
6.1.7 Digital Textile Printing
6.2 Block Printing Method
6.2.1 Block Cutting
6.2.2 The Printing Table
6.2.3 Printing Pad
6.3 Stencil Printing Method
6.3.1 Making of Stencil
6.3.2 Printing with Stencil
6.4 Get Creative
6.5 Flatbed Screen Printing
6.5.1 Disadvantages of Using Screen Printing
6.5.1.1 Flat Screen
6.5.1.2 Printing Table
6.5.1.3 Squeegees
6.5.1.4 Screen Frame
6.5.1.5 Screen Gauze Materials
6.5.2 Silk Gauze
6.5.3 Gauze from Synthetic Filaments
6.5.4 Polyamide Gauze
6.5.5 Polyester Fiber Gauze
6.5.6 Metal Filament Gauze
6.5.6.1 Gauze Numbering
6.5.6.2 Screen Coating Lacquer
6.5.6.3 Screen Making
6.5.7 Design Drawing
6.5.8 Covering of the Frame with Gauze
6.5.9 Fastening and Stretching of the Gauze by Hand
6.5.10 Photo-Chemical Method of Design Transfer
6.5.11 Light-Sensitive Coating
6.5.12 Chrome-Gelatin
6.5.13 Chrome-PVA
6.5.14 PVA Solution
6.5.15 Application of the Light-Sensitive Coatings
6.5.16 Method of Printing Using Large-Size Diapositives
6.5.17 Step-Up Method
6.5.18 Washing after Exposure
6.5.18.1 Manual Screen Printing Process
6.6 Future Trends
Chapter 7 Roller and Screen Printing Machines
7.1 Introduction
7.2 Roller Printing Machine
7.2.1 Roller Engraving
7.2.2 Advantages
7.2.3 Disadvantages
7.2.4 Defects of Roller Printing
7.2.4.1 Scumming
7.2.4.2 Scratches
7.2.4.3 Snapper
7.2.4.4 Lift
7.2.4.5 Streaks
7.2.4.6 Scrimp
7.2.4.7 Uneven Printing
7.3 Semi-Automatic Screen Printing Machine
7.4 Automatic Screen Printing Machine
7.4.1 Squeegee Systems
7.4.1.1 Double-Blade Squeegee
7.4.1.2 Magnetic-Rod Squeegee
7.4.2 Intermittent Movement of the Blanket
7.4.3 Discontinuity of Gumming and Washing
7.4.4 Control of Fabric Speed through the Dryer
7.4.5 Production Rate
7.4.5.1 Number of Squeegee Passes
7.4.5.2 Repeat Size
7.4.5.3 Efficiency of the Dryer
7.4.6 Printing Faults
7.4.6.1 Registration
7.4.6.2 Frame Marks
7.4.6.3 Splashing
7.5 Rotary Screen Printing Machine
7.5.1 Construction
7.5.2 Setting-Up of Rollers
7.5.3 Blanket and Screen Drives
7.5.4 Working
7.5.4.1 Types of Rotary Screens
7.5.4.2 Lacquer Screen
7.5.4.3 Galvano Screens
7.5.5 Half-Tone Printing
7.5.6 Laser Engraving
7.5.7 Merits/Drawbacks of Rotary Screen
7.5.8 Squeeze Systems
7.5.9 Screen Variables
7.5.9.1 Sustainable Production
7.5.9.2 Calculation of Predicted Consumptions
7.5.9.3 Evaluation of the Accurate Paste Autoweigh System
7.6 Fixation and After-Treatment Methods
7.6.1 Drying
7.6.1.1 Curing Machine for Pigment Print
7.6.1.2 Drier for Roller Printing Machine
7.6.1.3 Drier for Rotary Screen Printing Machine
7.6.2 Fixation of Prints
7.6.2.1 Dry Heat Fixation
7.6.2.2 Wet Fixation
7.6.2.3 Steam Fixation
7.6.3 Steamers
7.6.3.1 Batch Steamers
7.6.3.2 Continuous Steamers
7.6.3.3 Festoon Steamer
7.6.3.4 Washing
7.7 Future Trends
Chapter 8 Digital Printing
8.1 Introduction
8.2 History of Digital Printing
8.3 Market of Inkjet Printed Textiles
8.4 Screen Printing versus Digital Printing
8.4.1 Merits/Drawbacks of Inkjet Printing
8.4.1.1 Advantages of Screen Printing
8.4.1.2 Disadvantages of Using Screen Printing
8.4.1.3 Advantages of Digital Printing
8.4.1.4 Drawbacks of Digital Printing
8.4.1.5 Sustainability
8.4.1.6 Less Investment, Higher Savings
8.4.1.7 Manpower Flexibility
8.4.2 Mass Customization
8.5 Popular Inkjet Printer Manufacturers
8.6 Basic Concepts of Inkjet Printing
8.7 Principles of Inkjet Printing
8.7.1 Continuous Inkjet Printing (CIJ) Process
8.7.1.1 Charged Drops for Printing
8.7.1.2 Uncharged Drops for Printing
8.7.1.3 Electronic Deflection
8.7.1.4 Binary-Deflection CIJ
8.7.1.5 Multi-Deflection CIJ
8.7.2 Drop-on-Demand (DOD) Inkjet Technology
8.7.2.1 Advantages
8.7.2.2 Drop-on-Demand Inkjet Printer versus Traditional Label Printer
8.7.2.3 Piezoelectric DOD Inkjet Printer
8.7.2.4 Thermal DOD Inkjet Printer
8.7.2.5 Liquid Thermal/Bubble Jet
8.7.2.6 Solid Inkjet
8.7.2.7 Valve Jet
8.7.2.8 Electrostatic DOD Inkjet Printer
8.8 Substrate Pretreatment
8.9 Types of Digital Textile Printer
8.9.1 DTG and DTF Printing
8.10 Color Simulation on Paper
8.11 Image Quality
8.12 Components of Inkjet Printers
8.12.1 Printhead
8.12.2 Color Cartridge
8.12.3 Colorants for Inkjet Printing
8.12.3.1 Merits/Drawbacks of Dyes and Pigments
8.12.3.1.1 Advantages of Dye-Based Inks
8.12.3.1.2 Disadvantages of Dye-Based Inks
8.12.3.1.3 Advantages of Pigment-Based Inks
8.12.3.1.4 Disadvantages of Pigment-Based Inks
8.12.3.1.5 Desirable Properties of Dyes
8.13 Classification of Ink Colorant
8.13.1 Reactive Dyes Inks
8.13.2 Acid Dyes Inks
8.13.3 Disperse Dyes Inks
8.13.4 Pigments Inks
8.13.5 Natural Dyes
8.14 Ink Composition
8.14.1 Thickeners
8.14.2 Rheology of Ink
8.15 Dye-Specific Printers
8.15.1 Design Possibilities
8.16 Effect of Fabric Structure
8.17 Eco-Friendly Cleaner Production
8.17.1 Viscosity
8.17.2 Surface Tension
8.17.3 Humectants
8.17.4 Foaming and Defoamers
8.17.5 Dielectric Properties and Conductivity
8.18 Color Management
8.17.6 pH and Electrolytes
8.19 Color Matching
8.20 Just-In-Time Printing
8.21 Environmental Impacts of Digital Printing
8.22 3D Printing
8.23 3D Printing on Textiles
8.23.1 3D Printing in the Fashion Industry
8.23.2 Innovative Applications for Technical Textiles
8.23.3 New Dimensions with 4D Printing
8.23.3.1 3D Printing Methods
8.23.3.2 Merits/Drawbacks of 3D Printing
8.23.3.2.1 Advantages of 3D Printing
8.23.3.2.2 Disadvantages of 3D Printing
8.23.4 Hazards of 3D Printing
8.24 Future Trends
Index