Nanocosmeceuticals: Innovation, Application, and Safety

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Cosmetics are a fast-growing segment in the global personal care industry and the application of nanocosmeceuticals are on the rise. Conventional cosmetics greatly lack specific delivery systems, prolong effects and relatively heavy doses may be necessary. One of the common complaints of consumers is rather short-term activity of cosmetics, especially in face care products.

Nanocosmeceuticals, having more advanced nutrient delivery mechanisms, carry more task specific nutrients to the skin deep where it can be metabolized and used to nourish cells. It can help to increase the aesthetic appeal of a product influencing the purchase decision of a consumer.
Nanocosmeceuticals: Innovation, Application and Safety highlights the trends and applications of nanotechnology in cosmeceuticals for more advance and task specific nutrients delivery and long term effects of personal care products using liposome, solid lipid nanoparticles, nanostructured lipid carriers, transferosomes, niosomes, phytosomes, nanoemulsions, silver nanoparticles, chitin nanofibrils etc. It also provides the detailed information on regulatory laws, safety and marketing aspects of cosmeceuticals.

This book offers an indispensable guide for professors, researchers, students, formulation chemists as well as formulation scientists in academia and industry; beauticians and decision-makers in consumer organizations.

Author(s): Malay K. Das
Publisher: Academic Press
Year: 2022

Language: English
Pages: 588
City: London

Front Cover
Nanocosmeceuticals: Innovation, Application and Safety
Copyright
Contents
Contributors
Section 1: Introduction to nanocosmetics
Chapter 1: Introduction to nanotechnology in personal care products
1. Introduction
1.1. Skin care product
1.2. Hair care products
1.3. Oral care products
1.4. Nail care products
1.5. Lip care products
2. Why nanocosmeceuticals?
2.1. Problems associated with conventional cosmeceuticals
2.2. Need for nanocosmeceuticals
2.3. Various ranges of nanotechnology-based personal care products [33]
3. Novel nanocarriers used in personal care products
3.1. Solid lipid nanoparticles
3.2. Nanostructured lipid carrier
3.3. Liposomes
3.4. Polymeric nanoparticles
3.5. Lipid-polymer hybrid nanoparticles
3.6. Dendrimers
3.7. Gold and silver nanoparticles
3.8. Silica nanoparticles
3.9. Nanohydroxyapatite
3.10. Cubosomes
3.11. Carbon nanotubes
4. Probable mechanism for dermal penetration of nanocosmeceuticals
5. Clinical evidences of marketed nanocosmeceuticals and their uses
6. Conclusion and future prospects
1IntroductionCosmetology has its deep-rooted origin and evidence in the ancient history of Egyptian, Indus Valley,
References
Further reading
Chapter 2: Nanocosmeceuticals: Concept, opportunities, and challenges
1. Introduction
2. Concept, positive and negative aspects of nanocosmeceuticals
3. Delivery mechanism of nanocosmeceuticals through the skin layers
4. Role of nanocosmeceuticals for skin therapy
4.1. Nanocosmeceuticals for skin cancer
4.2. Nanocosmeceuticals for fungal infections
4.3. Nanocosmeceuticals for skin burns
4.4. Nanocosmeceuticals for atopic dermatitis
4.5. Nanocosmeceuticals for skin aging
4.6. Nanocosmeceuticals for miscellaneous purposes
5. Recently filed patents in the area of nanocosmeceutical formulations
6. Challenges associated with nanocosmeceuticals
7. Conclusion and future perspectives
1IntroductionOver the last few decades, transdermal delivery systems have been extensively studied for more effective applicat
References
Chapter 3: Dermatopharmacokinetics and possible mechanism of action for nanocosmeceuticals
1. Introduction
2. Nanocosmeceuticals and their possible mechanism of action
2.1. Anatomy of the skin
2.2. Pathways of drug entry across the skin
2.3. Cosmeceutical payload-carrying nanovehicles and their mechanism of action
2.3.1. Nanoemulsion-based nanocosmeceuticals and their possible mechanism of action
Interaction with skin component mechanism
2.3.2. Liposome-based nanocosmeceuticals and their possible mechanism of action
Interaction with skin component mechanism
2.3.3. Polymeric nanoparticles (nanospheres and nanocapsules) and their possible mechanism of action
Interaction with skin component mechanism
2.3.4. Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) and nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) and their possible mechanism of action
Interaction with skin component mechanism
3. Dermatopharmacokinetics of nanocosmeceuticals
3.1. Strategies to assess dermatopharmacokinetics of topical nanocosmeceuticals
3.1.1. In vitro approach
Franz cell chamber method
3.1.2. In vivo approaches
Tape stripping method
Vasoconstrictor assay
Microdialysis
Confocal Raman spectroscopic method
Attenuated total reflectance-infrared spectroscopy (ATR-IR) and near infrared (Near IR)
3.2. Dermatopharmacokinetic parameter determination
4. Conclusions and future perspectives
References
Chapter 4: Production and physicochemical characterization of nanocosmeceuticals
1. Introduction
2. Nanocarriers/nanomaterials in cosmetics
2.1. Nanoemulsions
2.2. Liposome
2.3. Niosome
2.4. Cubosomes
2.5. Dendrimers
2.6. Polymeric nanoparticles
2.7. Carbon nanotubes
2.8. Fullerenes
2.9. Solid lipid nanoparticle
2.10. Nanostructured lipid carrier
2.11. Metallic nanoparticles
3. Production of nanocarrier/nanocosmeceuticals
3.1. High-pressure homogenization
3.2. Ultrasonic emulsification
3.3. Microfluidization
3.4. Spontaneous emulsification
3.5. Phase inversion temperature
3.6. Phase inversion composition
3.7. Microemulsion
3.8. Solvent emulsification evaporation
3.9. Solvent diffusion/displacement
3.10. Ionic cross-linking
3.11. Polymerization
3.12. Arc discharge
3.13. Laser ablation
3.14. Chemical vapor deposition
3.15. Thermal synthesis
4. Characterization of nanocosmeceuticals
4.1. Particle size and size distribution
4.2. Zeta potential
4.3. Morphological aspects
4.4. Crystal structure study
4.5. Entrapment and loading efficacy of active ingredient
4.6. Release of active substances
4.7. Physical stability
4.8. pH
4.9. Organoleptic characteristics
4.10. Rheological characteristics
4.11. Active content measurement
5. Patent review on nanocosmeceuticals
6. Safety/regulatory guidelines for preparation of nanocosmeceuticals
6.1. European Union
6.2. United States
6.3. Japan
6.4. China
7. Conclusion
References
Further reading
Chapter 5: Physical, chemical, and microbiological stability of nanocosmetics
1. Introduction
2. Stability studies of nanocosmetics
2.1. Significance of stability study
2.2. Mechanism for destabilization of cosmetics
2.3. Measures to overcome destabilization issues
3. Physical, chemical, and microbiological stability of nanocosmetics
3.1. Physical stability of nanocosmetics
3.1.1. Evaluation of parameters to check physical stability of nanocosmetics
3.2. Chemical stability of nanocosmetics
3.2.1. Evaluation of parameters to check chemical stability of nanocosmetics
3.3. Microbial stability of nanocosmetics
3.3.1. Evaluation of parameters to check microbial stability of nanocosmetics
4. Regulatory aspects for stability study of nanocosmetics
4.1. Annex 1 Part A 2 (European Union 2009)
4.2. Annex 1 Part B 3 (European Union 2009)
4.3. Microbiological specifications according to international regulations
4.3.1. Legislation in the United States
4.3.2. Legislation in Japan
4.3.3. Legislation in the European Union
5. Conclusion
References
Section 2: Application of nanocosmeceuticals
Chapter 6: Potential of colloidal carriers for nanocosmeceutical applications
1. Introduction
1.1. The colloidal carriers and nanotechnology
1.2. Cosmetics vs cosmeceuticals vs nanocosmeceuticals
2. Organic colloidal carriers for nanocosmeceutical applications
2.1. Liposomes
2.2. Modified liposomes
2.2.1. Niosomes
2.2.2. Ultrasomes
2.2.3. Photosomes
2.2.4. Transferosomes
2.2.5. Novasomes
2.2.6. Marinosomes
2.2.7. Phytosomes
2.2.8. Glycerosomes
2.2.9. Oleosomes
2.2.10. Invasomes
2.2.11. Sphingosomes
2.2.12. Polymerosomes
2.2.13. Catezomes
2.2.14. Asymmetric oxygen carrier system liposomes
2.2.15. Yeast-based liposomes
2.3. Nanoemulsions
2.4. Solid-lipid nanoparticles
2.5. Nanostructured lipid carriers
2.6. Cubosomes
2.7. Polymeric nanoparticles
2.8. Dendrimers
2.9. Nanosponges
2.10. Nanocrystals
3. Inorganic colloidal carriers
3.1. TiO2 and ZnO colloidal particles
3.2. Nanogold and nanosilver
3.3. Carbon nanotubes
3.4. Fullerene
3.5. Nano carbon black
4. Categories of nanocosmeceuticals
4.1. Skin care products
4.1.1. Moisturizers
4.1.2. Sunscreens
4.1.3. Antiaging products
4.1.4. Skin cleansers
4.2. Hair care products
4.3. Lip care products
4.4. Nail care products
4.5. Oral care products
4.6. Nanoperfumes and nanofragrances
5. Mechanisms of skin penetration
6. Consumer concerns in the use of nanocosmeceuticals
6.1. Routes of exposure to colloidal nanocarriers
6.1.1. Inhalation
6.1.2. Ingestion
6.1.3. Dermal route
6.2. Nanocarrier toxicity, safety, and regulatory concerns
7. Conclusion
Conflict of interest
References
Chapter 7: Liposomes as a skin delivery system for cosmeceuticals
1. Introduction
2. Science of liposomes
3. Mechanism of dermal penetration
4. Dermal penetration with advanced lipid vesicles
4.1. Transferosomes
4.2. Ethosomes
4.3. Niosomes
4.4. Invasomes
4.5. LeciPlex
4.6. Phytosomes or herbosomes
4.7. Hyalurosomes
4.8. Glycerosomes
4.9. Catezomes
4.10. Pharmacosomes
4.11. Novasomes
4.12. Marinosomes
5. Industrial feasibility of manufacturing
5.1. Supercritical fluid technology
5.2. Dual asymmetric centrifugation
5.3. Membrane contactor technology
6. Regulatory aspects
6.1. CMC considerations
6.2. Pharmacokinetics, bioavailability, and bioequivalence studies
6.3. Labeling
7. Application of liposomal cosmeceuticals
7.1. Skin care liposomal products
7.1.1. Moisturizers
7.1.2. Sunscreen and UV protection
7.1.3. Antiaging lotions
7.1.4. Whitening and freckle-removing cosmetics
7.1.5. Antiacne cream
7.2. Hair care liposomal products
7.2.1. Alopecia
8. Conclusion
References
Chapter 8: Phytosomes in functional cosmetics
1. Introduction
2. Structure and function of skin
3. Changes of skin due to aging
3.1. Apparent age for the appearance of aging
3.2. Reduction of smooth consistency
3.3. Expansion of wrinkles
3.4. Augmentation of dull feature
3.5. Decrease in toughness and flexibility
3.6. Decrease in the functioning of the skin
4. Symptoms of intrinsic aging
5. Symptoms of extrinsic aging
6. Other skin problems
7. Some cases of functional cosmetic plants
8. Concepts of phytosomes
8.1. Introduction to phytosomes
8.2. Advantages of phytosomes
8.3. The nucleus of phytosome technology
8.4. Properties of phytosomes
8.4.1. Physicochemical properties
8.4.2. Biological properties
8.5. Formulation building blocks and designing
8.5.1. Designing of phytosomal formulation
Herbal extract screening
Determination of additives
Choice of dosage form
8.6. Preparation of phytosomes
8.6.1. Salting-out method
8.6.2. Lyophilization method
8.6.3. Solvent evaporation method
8.6.4. Antisolvent precipitation method
8.6.5. Rotary evaporation method
8.6.6. Ether injection method
8.6.7. Novel strategies and methods
8.7. Evaluation and characterization of phytosomes
8.7.1. Visualization
8.7.2. X-ray powder diffraction
8.7.3. High-performance thin layer chromatography
8.7.4. Loading content
8.7.5. Entrapment efficiency
8.7.6. Transition temperature
8.7.7. Surface tension activity measurement
8.7.8. Vesicle stability
8.7.9. Vesicle size and zeta-potential
8.7.10. Complexation efficiency
8.7.11. Partition coefficient (logP) value
8.7.12. Solubility study
8.7.13. Stability study
8.7.14. Differential scanning calorimeter
8.7.15. Melting point
8.7.16. Spectroscopic evaluations
8.7.17. In vitro and in vivo evaluations
9. Utility of phytosomes as functional cosmetics
10. Commercial and patented phytosomes as functional cosmetics
11. Some applications of phytosomes
11.1. Bioavailability enhancement
11.2. Transdermal application
11.3. Wound healing
11.4. Different therapeutic targets
11.5. Food and nutraceuticals
12. Conclusion and final remarks
References
Chapter 9: Lipid-based nanocosmeceuticals with antiaging potential
1. Introduction
2. Skin aging
3. Molecular mechanism of aging
3.1. Oxidative stress-induced aging
3.2. Aging due to telomere shortening
3.3. MMPs signaling pathway-induced skin aging
3.4. Cytokines and skin aging
3.5. Aging due to hormonal changes
4. Antiaging compounds
5. Nanocosmeceuticals and their types
5.1. Nonlipid nanocosmeceuticals
5.1.1. Nanocrystal
5.1.2. Dendrimers
5.1.3. Niosomes
5.1.4. Metal nanoparticles
5.1.5. Polymeric nanoparticles
5.1.6. Carbon nanotubes
5.1.7. Polymersomes
5.1.8. Fullerene
5.2. Lipid-based nanocosmeceuticals and their antiaging potential
5.2.1. Liposome
Liposomes with antiaging potential
5.2.2. Solid lipid nanoparticles
SLN with antiaging potential
5.2.3. Nanostructured lipid carriers
NLC with antiaging potential
5.2.4. Nanoemulsions
Nanoemulsion with antiaging potential
5.2.5. Phytosomes
Phytosomes with antiaging potential
5.2.6. Cubosomes
Cubosomes with antiaging potential
5.2.7. Transferosomes
Transferosomes with antiaging potential
6. Marketed formulation
7. Conclusion
1IntroductionThe history of usage of cosmetics started since the inception of civilized society throughout the globe. Various
References
Chapter 10: Smart lipid nanoparticles for cosmetic use
1. Introduction
2. Application of lipid nanoparticles in cosmetic
2.1. Photoprotectant
2.1.1. UV protectant
2.1.2. Infra-red (IR) radiation protectant
2.2. Moisturizing and antiaging properties
2.3. Antioxidants
2.4. Antiwrinkle
2.5. Antipigmentation
3. Patent on lipid nanoparticles-based cosmetics
4. Toxicity of lipid nanoparticles
4.1. Health issues
4.2. Environment-related toxicity
5. Future perspectives
References
Chapter 11: Investigation on potential of nanoemulsion in nanocosmeceuticals
1. Introduction
2. Benefits of nanoemulsion
3. Production of NE
4. Marketed NE-based nanocosmeceuticals
5. Nanoemulsion as micellar nanoparticles [12]
6. Recent investigations on nanoemulsion in nanocosmeceuticals
7. Conclusion
References
Chapter 12: Nonionic surfactant nanovesicles for cosmeceutical applications
1. Introduction
2. Vesicular drug delivery systems in cosmeceuticals
2.1. Niosomes
3. Prospective niosomal drug transport mechanism
4. Advantages of niosomes
5. Disadvantages of niosomes
6. Applications of niosomes
6.1. Skincare applications
6.2. Applications against hair loss
6.3. Applications on nail care
7. Latest niosomal cosmeceutical formulations
8. Patents and marketed formulations
9. Future perspective
10. Conclusions
Acknowledgment
References
Chapter 13: Nanosunscreens for cosmeceutical applications
1. Introduction
2. The nanotechnology-based era of sunscreens
2.1. Comminution of the bulk UV filters to nanometric scale
2.2. Encapsulation of UV filters in nanovehicles
2.2.1. Polymeric nanoparticle-encapsulated UV filters
2.2.2. SLN-encapsulated UV filters
2.2.3. NLC-encapsulated UV filters
3. Toxicity concerns of nanosunscreens
3.1. Health concerns of nanosunscreens
3.1.1. Factors affecting cytotoxicity and genotoxicity of nanosunscreens
3.1.2. Countermeasures for toxicities associated with nanosunscreens
3.2. Environmental concerns of nanosunscreens
4. Regulatory map of sunscreens
5. Status quo of nanosunscreens in cosmeceutical application
6. Conclusion
References
Chapter 14: Biosynthesized colloidal metallic nanoparticles-based nanocosmetic formulations
1. Introduction
2. Biosynthesis of metallic nanoparticles
3. Major classes of nanocosmeceuticals based on biosynthesized metallic NPs
3.1. Moisturizers
3.2. Sunscreens
3.3. Antiaging products
3.4. Hair care
3.5. Skin cleanser
3.6. Lip care
3.7. Nail care
4. Exposure to nanoparticles
5. Skin penetration of nanoparticles
6. Toxicity of nanoparticles
7. Recent advances in nanoproduct regulations
8. Conclusion
1IntroductionNanotechnology is playing a significant role in the research and development of biological science. The mos
References
Further reading
Chapter 15: Dendrimers for skin delivery of cosmeceuticals
1. Introduction
2. Structure and chemistry
3. Synthesis of dendrimers
3.1. Divergent method
3.2. Convergent methods
3.3. Lego chemistry strategy
3.4. Click chemistry strategy
4. Dendrimers properties
5. Interaction of dendrimer with drugs or actives
6. Effect of various factors on dendrimer
6.1. pH
6.2. Salt
6.3. Temperature
7. Dendritic-based delivery system
8. Can dendrimers penetrate the stratum corneum?
9. Mechanism and absorption of dendrimers through the skin
10. Influence of dendrimer size in skin penetration
10.1. Influence of dendrimer surface modification on skin penetration
10.2. Influence of active drug dendrimer on skin penetration
10.3. Influence of dendrimer on active drug solubility
10.4. Influence of dendrimer on the partition coefficient of the drug
10.5. Influence of dendrimer on the diffusion coefficient of the drug
11. Safety aspects of dendrimers
12. Application of dendrimers in cosmeceutical
13. Dendrimers in cosmetics and personal care applications
14. Summary and future outlook
References
Chapter 16: Natural polymer-based nanocarriers for advanced cosmeceutical application
1. Introduction
2. Skin penetration of nanocarriers
3. Natural polymers as a carrier for cosmeceuticals
3.1. Nanocellulose
3.2. Chitosan
3.3. Dextran
3.4. Alginate
3.5. Ulvan
3.6. Chitin nanofibrils
3.7. Collagen
3.8. Hyaluronic acid/hyaluronan
4. Conclusion
Acknowledgment
References
Further reading
Chapter 17: Herbal cosmeceuticals for beauty and skin therapy
1. Introduction
2. Cosmetics and cosmeceuticals
3. Cosmeceuticals
3.1. Regulatory status of cosmeceuticals
4. Need of herbal cosmeceuticals
5. The requirements for the basic skin care
6. Herbal vs. synthetic cosmeceuticals
6.1. Chemical free and with natural ingredients
6.2. Safe for skin
6.3. Suitable for all skin types
6.4. Wide range
7. Affordable
8. Cruelty free
8.1. Safety
9. Herbs used in cosmetics/cosmeceuticals
9.1. Skincare
10. Hair care
11. Present status of herbal cosmetics
12. Conclusion
References
Section 3: Regulatory, safety and marketing aspects of nanocosmeceuticals
Chapter 18: Current global regulations for nanocosmeceuticals
1. Introduction
2. Legal definition of nanomaterial
3. Definition of nanomaterials in cosmetics
4. Inclusion of nanotechnology in cosmetics
5. Safety evaluation of nanomaterials for cosmetics
6. Global regulations of nanomaterials in cosmetics
6.1. EU
6.1.1. Regulation 1223/2009
6.1.2. Nanomaterial catalog
6.1.3. Product information file
6.2. The United States
6.3. India
6.4. China
6.5. Canada
6.6. Australia
6.7. New Zealand
6.8. Brazil
6.9. Japan
6.10. South Korea
6.11. ASEAN Cosmetic Directive (ACD) regulations
7. Concluding remarks
References
Further reading
Chapter 19: Safety evaluation and assessment of nanocosmeceutical products
1. Introduction
2. Safety assessment of nanocosmeceuticals
3. Current regulations for nanocosmeceuticals
4. Toxicity, safety, and hazardous effects of nanocosmeceuticals
4.1. Mathematical modeling
4.2. Microscopic techniques
4.3. In vitro methods
4.4. In vitro 3T3 impartial crimson uptake phototoxicity (3T3 NRU PT)
4.5. Tests for mutagenicity/genotoxicity
4.6. In vitro mammalian cell chromosome aberration
4.7. Dermal absorption estimation on human skin/pigskin
4.8. In vitro skin corrosion: Transcutaneous electrical resistance test (TER)
4.9. Skin irritation testing via Episkin
4.10. The embryonic stem cell test (EST)
5. Conclusion
References
Chapter 20: Nanocosmeceuticals: Current trends, market analysis, and future trends
1. Introduction
2. Current market trend of nanocosmeceuticals
3. Different categories of nanocosmeceuticals
3.1. Face and beauty care nanocosmeceuticals
3.2. Antiaging nanocosmeceutical
3.3. Moisturizer nanocosmeceuticals
3.4. Sunscreen nanocosmeceuticals
3.5. Lip care nanocosmeceuticals
3.6. Hair care nanocosmeceuticals
3.7. Nail care nanocosmeceuticals
3.8. Skin cleanser nanocosmeceuticals
3.9. Dental care nanocosmeceuticals
3.10. Deodorant nanocosmeceuticals
4. Market scenario of nanocosmeceuticals
5. Regulatory aspect of nanocosmeceuticals
6. Future perspective of nanocosmeceuticals
7. Conclusion
References
Index
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