Advanced Knitting Technology

Advanced Knitting Technology
Copyright
Contributors
Dedication
Preface to the first edition
The Textile Institute Book Series
Recently Published and Upcoming Titles in the Textile Institute Book Series:
1. Introduction to advances in knitting technology
1.1 Historical developments of knitting technology
1.2 Fundamentals of knitting
1.3 Share of knitting in global textile context
1.4 Science, engineering, and technology in knitting
1.5 Industry 4.0: automation in knitting technology
1.6 Recent trends in knitting technology
1.7 Benefits of advances in knitting technology
1.8 Summary
References
2. Recent developments in knitting technology
2.1 Introduction: vibrant development in various areas
2.2 Inspiration from the past: redesigning earlier innovations
2.2.1 Knitting needles
2.2.2 All-in-one garment production
2.2.3 Merged knitting units
2.3 Remaining for later times: discarded innovative concepts
2.4 From division to fusion: merging technologies and processes
2.4.1 Hybrid spinning–knitting
2.4.2 Merged sock knitting and assembly
2.4.3 Sinkerless knitting
2.5 Inspiration from other technologies: upgrading features and performance
2.5.1 Relative movement of knitting needles and sinkers
2.5.2 Reverse plating in flat knitting
2.5.3 Dual gauge on circular knitting machines
2.5.4 Changing machine dimensions: narrow and wide machine models
2.5.5 Mimicking woven structures
2.5.6 Mimicking sandwich textiles: spacer knits
2.5.7 Mimicking nonwovens—protective masks
2.5.8 Mimicking chemical finishing
2.6 Expanding the borders of textile industry: taking over shoe industry
2.7 Shift to nonclothing knitted products: technical knits
2.8 Expanding the range of raw materials: unconventional knitting materials
2.9 Upgraded automation: robotics
2.10 In step with the modern era: move toward sustainable production, industry 4.0, and circular economy
2.11 Summary
References
3. Mechanics of loop formation in plain weft knitting machinery
3.1 Introduction
3.2 Weft knitting process and loop formation
3.3 Loop length
3.3.1 Factors affecting loop length of single Jersey weft knitting
3.3.1.1 Effect of yarn input tension and cam setting on loop length
3.3.1.2 Effect of yarn friction on loop length
3.4 Mathematical models of theoretical loop length calculation
3.5 Knitting zone geometry
3.5.1 Yarn tension inside knitting zone (Knapton and Munden model)
3.5.2 Factor affecting yarn tension inside knitting zone
3.5.2.1 Effect of input tension and yarn friction on maximum knitting tension
3.5.2.2 Effect of the number of yarn/metal contact surfaces on maximum knitting tension
3.6 Yarn tension profile inside knitting zone and loop length (Banerjee and Ghosh model)
3.6.1 Assumptions and notation
3.6.2 Formulation of the model
3.6.2.1 Geometry of the system
Change in tension in yarn segment due to change in geometrical yarn length
3.6.3 Role of the cast-off loop
3.6.4 Forces opposing needle movement beyond knitting point
3.6.5 Determination of final loop length and yarn tension
3.6.6 Simulation process
3.6.7 Yarn tension and needle in the knitting zone
3.7 Conclusion
References
4. Innovation and technology of knitted apparels
4.1 Introduction
4.2 Technology of knitwear production
4.2.1 Raw material and fabric characterization for knitted
4.2.2 Knitted garment production types
4.2.2.1 Fully cut method—fundamental production technique
4.2.2.2 Cut-and-stitch shaped knitted apparels—commercial production technique
4.2.2.3 Fully fashioned knitted apparels—engineered production technique
4.2.2.4 Integral and whole garment knitwear—innovative production technique
4.3 Role and implementation of designing in knitwear prototyping
4.4 Pattern making technology for knitted apparels
4.4.1 Knit fitting
4.4.2 Principles of knit pattern making
4.4.3 Body measurements for knit pattern drafting
4.4.4 Pattern making—basic bodice
4.4.5 Pattern making—knit skirts
4.4.6 Pattern making—knit pants
4.4.7 Knit garment alterations
4.5 Sewing practices for knitwear
4.6 Commercial styles of knitwear
4.7 Infusion of innovation in knitwear technology
4.7.1 Use of bio-based raw materials
4.7.2 Use of digital cum virtual technology for knit designing
4.7.3 Knitted high-performance apparel making-up technology
4.7.4 Advanced knitwear retail prospects
4.8 Conclusions
References
5. Yarns for knitting and their selection
5.1 Introduction to yarn
5.2 Yarn composition
5.3 Fiber wise knitted end products
5.4 Natural fiber–based popular yarns for knitting
5.5 Scope of jute yarn in knitting
5.6 Regenerated fiber–based popular yarns for knitting
5.7 Synthetic fiber–based popular yarns for knitting
5.8 Knitting of textured yarns
5.9 Technical yarns for knitting
5.9.1 Scope of Lycra (elastomeric) yarn in knitting
5.9.2 Aramid fiber–based yarn in knitting
5.9.3 Teflon fiber–based yarn in knitting
5.9.4 Antibacterial fiber–based yarn in knitting
5.9.5 Microencapsulated fiber–based yarn in knitting
5.10 Yarn packages and preparatory processes for knitting
5.11 Yarn count or number
5.11.1 Direct system
5.11.2 Indirect yarn counting system
5.11.3 Conversion of count in one system to other system
5.11.4 Count of plied or folded yarns
5.11.5 Yarn count and yarn diameter
5.12 Selection of yarns for knitting
5.13 Yarn parameters and properties
5.13.1 Final appearance and quality of the product
5.13.2 Requirements of the users/consumers
5.13.3 Fabric design and construction
5.13.4 Types of knitting machine and gauge
5.13.5 Knitting point of view (requirements of machine)
5.13.6 Wet processing behavior
5.13.7 Optimization of the influencing factors
5.14 Relationship between machine gauge and yarn count
5.15 Summary
References
6. Use of AI and machine learning techniques in knitting
6.1 Introduction
6.2 Types of artificial intelligence system
6.3 Current status of artificial intelligence in knitting
6.4 Application of artificial intelligence in knitted fabric production
6.5 Process control in knitting using artificial intelligence
6.6 Quality control in knitting using artificial intelligence
6.6.1 Evaluation of hand value of knitted fabrics
6.6.2 Evaluation of thermal conductivity of knitted fabrics
6.6.3 Evaluation of bursting strength
6.6.4 Evaluation of pilling resistance
6.6.5 Evaluation of spirality of knitted fabrics
6.6.6 Evaluation of antimicrobial property
6.7 Evaluation of color solutions
6.8 Fabric fault detection
6.9 Prediction of knitting machine parameters
6.10 Computer aided design systems in knitting
6.11 Application in supply chain in knit industry
6.12 Production planning and control in knit industry
6.13 Application in knit retailing
6.14 Challenges and future directions faced by artificial intelligence in knit industries
6.15 Conclusion
References
7. Use of CAD in knitted apparels
7.1 Computer Aided Design in knitting technology
7.2 Software solutions for knitting technology
7.3 Computer Aided Design on fashion knitwear
7.4 Computer Aided Design on technical knitwear
7.4.1 Semispherical and spherical domes
7.5 Digitalization and sustainability in knitting industry
7.6 Summary
References
8. Production of seamless knitted apparels
8.1 Introduction
8.2 History of development of seamless knitting
8.3 Advantages of seamless knitting
8.4 The seamless technique
8.4.1 Course shaping
8.4.2 Wale shaping
8.5 Technological limitations of seamless knitting
8.6 Seamless knitting machines
8.6.1 Whole garment machine by Shima Seiki
8.6.2 Seamless knitting machine by STOLL
8.6.3 Circular seamless technology by SANTONI
8.6.4 Seamless warp knitting
8.7 The opportunity of three-dimensional fitting and comfort
8.8 Applications of seamless knitting
8.8.1 Fashion apparels
8.8.2 Intimate apparels
8.8.3 Seamless sportswear
8.8.4 Upholstery and home textiles
8.8.5 Seamless knits for automobiles
8.8.6 Seamless knitting for medical textile applications
8.9 Future perspectives
References
9. Process control in knitting
9.1 Introduction
9.2 Importance of knitted fabric quality
9.2.1 Laps in the manual inspection
9.2.2 Economizing time and money
9.2.3 Reducing customer dissatisfaction
9.2.4 Enhancing fabric handle
9.2.5 Enhancing fabric parameters
9.3 Quality facets of fabrics from consumers' standpoint
9.4 Process control in knitting
9.4.1 Process control before the knitting process: raw material management
9.4.1.1 Yarn production management
9.4.1.2 Yarn appearance
9.4.1.3 Fiber composition
9.4.1.4 Yarn linear density
9.4.1.5 Yarn evenness
9.4.1.6 Yarn hairiness
9.4.1.7 Yarn strength and elongation
9.4.1.8 Yarn twist
9.4.1.9 Yarn friction
9.4.2 Process control during the knitting process
9.4.3 Computerized on-line process controlling
9.4.4 Off-line fabric quality inspection
9.5 Key check points in knitting
9.5.1 Checking and testing of yarn
9.5.2 Checking knitting machine parameters during setup
9.6 Knitted fabric quality parameters
9.6.1 Stitch length
9.6.2 Areal density
9.6.3 Stitch density
9.6.4 Tightness factor
9.6.5 Fabric structure
9.6.6 Fabric width
9.6.7 Fabric shrinkage
9.7 Testing the quality of knitted fabric
9.8 Controlling process variables
9.8.1 Controlling stitch length
9.8.2 Controlling areal density
9.8.3 Controlling yarn feeding by positive feeder
9.8.4 Controlling run-in tension
9.8.5 Controlling fabric width
9.8.6 Controlling yarn input tension
9.8.6.1 Low-cost force sensor
9.8.6.2 Monitoring input tension through one single parameter
9.8.7 Controlling fabric take-down tension
9.8.8 Controlling fabric shrinkage and dimensional stability
9.8.8.1 Spirality
9.8.8.2 Controlling spirality
9.9 Common knitted fabric faults
9.10 Engineering approaches in fabric defect detection
9.10.1 Structural approaches
9.10.2 Statistical approaches
9.10.2.1 Matrix
9.10.2.2 Histogram
9.10.3 Autocorrelation
9.10.4 Mathematical morphology–based approaches
9.10.5 Spectral approaches
9.10.5.1 Image processing
9.10.5.2 Image processing to predict yarn quantity ratio of jacquard knit
9.10.5.3 Fast Fourier Transform
9.10.6 Learning approach
9.10.6.1 Fuzzy algorithm
Classification of defect using FCM
Classification of defect using ANFIS
9.10.6.2 Artificial neural network
9.10.6.3 Genetic algorithm
9.11 Recent approaches in planning, monitoring, and process controlling for knitting
9.11.1 STARFISH
9.11.1.1 Operational parameters
9.11.1.2 Analyzing the procedure of STARFISH
9.11.2 Mayer and Cie MCTmatic quality monitoring system
9.11.3 BarcoVision's KnitMaster
9.11.4 MonitorKnit and KnitLab
9.11.5 Mayer and Cie Relanit technology
9.11.6 Snap study
9.12 Conclusion
References
10. Knitted active wears
10.1 Introduction
10.2 Market of knitted activewear
10.3 Principle and functional requirement of knitted activewear
10.3.1 Mechanical performance
10.3.1.1 Stretch
10.3.1.2 Garment fit
10.3.1.3 Stress–strain characteristics
10.3.1.4 Elastic recovery
10.3.1.5 Pressure generated by activewear
10.3.2 Comfort characteristics
10.3.2.1 Thermal property
10.3.2.2 Moisture vapor transmission
10.3.2.3 Wetting
10.3.2.4 Wicking
10.3.2.5 Sweat absorption
10.3.2.6 Air permeability
10.3.3 Protection properties
10.3.4 Sensorial comfort of knitted activewear
10.4 Constituent materials and their functionality
10.4.1 Fibers
10.4.1.1 Outlast
10.4.1.2 Celliant
10.4.1.3 Tencel
10.4.1.4 Milkweed
10.4.1.5 Dyneema
10.4.1.6 Coolmax
10.4.2 Yarns
10.4.2.1 Trinomax AQ
10.4.3 Fabrics
10.5 Garment production
10.5.1 Garment sizing
10.5.2 Garment construction
10.5.3 Sewing thread
10.5.4 Fasteners
10.5.5 Wash and care
10.6 Evaluation of knitted activewear
10.6.1 Tensile property
10.6.2 Comfort properties
10.6.3 Evaluation of knitted activewear by pressure measurement
10.6.3.1 Subjective assessment
10.6.3.2 Objective assessment by pressure sensors
Fluid displacement–based sensors
Resistive ink–based sensors
Capacitive pressure sensor
Strain gauge–based pressure sensor
10.7 Summary and future of activewear
References
11. Innovation and technology of knitted intimate apparels
11.1 Introduction
11.2 Classification of intimate apparel
11.2.1 Articles designed to be worn in bed or at leisure
11.2.2 Articles of underwear
11.3 Importance of intimate apparel
11.4 The comfort dimension in intimate apparel
11.4.1 Aesthetic comfort
11.4.1.1 Influence of attitudes and self-identity
11.4.1.2 Maintaining an ideal body shape
11.4.1.3 Care for fabric degradation
11.4.2 Hygienic comfort
11.4.2.1 Environment for bacteria growth
11.4.2.2 Antimicrobial fabrics
11.4.3 Thermal comfort
11.4.3.1 Heat transfer through innerwear fabrics
11.4.3.2 Hygroscopicity of innerwear fabrics
11.4.3.3 Moisture management in innerwear fabrics
11.4.4 Improving body movement comfort
11.4.4.1 The importance of size and fit
11.4.5 Sensorial comfort
11.4.5.1 Tactile sensation
11.4.5.2 Avoiding skin irritation
11.4.5.3 Allowing comfortable pressure
11.5 Raw materials
11.6 Knit fabrics for intimate apparel
11.6.1 Physiological and thermoregulatory knitted fabrics
11.6.2 Antibacterial knitted fabrics
11.7 Manufacturing intimate apparel
11.7.1 Seamless technology
11.7.2 Seamless intimate apparel
11.7.3 Seamless knitting machines
11.7.4 Benefits of seamless apparel
11.7.4.1 Enhanced aesthetic value and comfort
11.7.4.2 Cost saving
11.7.4.3 Waste reduction
11.7.4.4 Lower lead time
11.7.4.5 Flexibility
11.7.4.6 Quality and durability
11.7.5 Methods of production of seamless apparel
11.7.5.1 Yarn inspection and testing
11.7.5.2 Seamless knitting
11.7.5.3 Inspection of tubes for visual defects
11.7.5.4 Stretchability test
11.7.5.5 Boarding
11.7.5.6 Garment dyeing
11.7.5.7 Garment washing or scouring
11.7.5.8 Inspection and testing
11.7.5.9 Seaming
11.7.5.10 Packing
11.7.6 Seamless to feature in intimate apparel growth
11.7.7 Other sophisticated machineries for intimate apparel
11.8 Conclusion
References
12. Knitted geotextiles
12.1 Introduction
12.1.1 History
12.2 Types of geotextiles
12.2.1 Woven geotextiles
12.2.2 Nonwoven geotextiles
12.2.2.1 Mechanical bonding
12.2.2.2 Thermal bonding
12.2.2.3 Chemical bonding
12.2.3 Knitted geotextiles
12.3 Manufacturing process of knitted geotextiles
12.3.1 3D-knitted geotextiles manufacturing
12.3.1.1 Cellular geonets
12.3.1.2 Multiaxial warp knit
12.3.1.3 Flat weft-knitted geotextile
12.4 Properties of knitted geotextiles
12.4.1 Geometric parameters
12.4.1.1 Porosity
12.4.1.2 Texture
12.4.1.3 Voluminosity/puffiness
12.4.1.4 Thickness of the fabric
12.4.2 Performance parameters
12.4.2.1 Permeability
12.4.2.2 Compressibility
12.4.2.3 Extensibility of a fabric
12.4.2.4 Toughness of a fabric
12.4.3 Physical properties
12.4.3.1 Mass per unit area
12.4.3.2 Thickness
12.4.3.3 Rigidity
12.4.4 Mechanical properties
12.4.4.1 Tensile strength
12.4.4.2 Shear strength
12.4.4.3 Seam strength
12.4.4.4 Bursting strength
12.4.4.5 Tear strength
12.4.4.6 Puncture strength
12.4.5 Hydraulic properties
12.4.5.1 Porosity
12.4.5.2 Percentage open area
12.4.5.3 Apparent opening size
12.4.5.4 Permeability and permittivity
12.4.5.5 Transmissivity
12.4.6 Durability properties
12.4.6.1 Temperature
12.4.6.2 Oxidation
12.4.6.3 Chemical degradation
12.4.6.4 Ultraviolet degradation
12.5 Functions of geotextiles
12.5.1 Reinforcement
12.5.2 Filtration
12.5.3 Drainage
12.5.4 Separation
12.5.5 Protection
12.6 Applications of geotextiles
12.6.1 Road works
12.6.2 Railway works
12.6.3 Coastal works
12.6.4 Drainage
12.6.5 Noise insulating screens
12.6.6 Geotextile for shore protection
12.6.7 Sports field construction
12.6.8 Agriculture
12.7 Advantages of knitted geotextile
12.8 Survivability and durability of geotextiles
12.9 Conclusion
12.10 Sources of further information and advice
References
13. Warp knitting for preparation of high-performance apparels
13.1 Introduction
13.2 Warp knitting machinery
13.3 Warp-knitted stitches
13.3.1 Loop stitch
13.3.2 Miss-lapping stitch
13.3.3 Inlay stitch
13.3.4 Fall-plate stitch
13.4 Warp knitting techniques
13.4.1 Spacer warp knitting technique
13.4.2 Multibar warp knitting technique
13.4.3 Piezo Jacquard warp knitting technique
13.5 Typical examples of high-performance apparel
13.5.1 Compression garments
13.5.2 Seamless garments
13.5.3 Auxetic fabrics
13.6 Summary
References
14. Application of knitted fabrics in textile structural composites
14.1 Knitted fabrics in composites
14.1.1 Cowoven-knitted fabric composite
14.1.2 Thermoforming of knitted-fabric composites
14.2 Tensile properties of knitted fabric composites
14.2.1 Tensile properties of weft-knit 1×1 rib glass/epoxy composites
14.2.2 Tensile and compressive behavior of multilayer flax-rib knitted composites
14.2.3 Tension fatigue behavior of knitted fabric composites
14.2.4 Initial fracture of the welt weft-knitted textile composites
14.2.5 Mechanical properties of biaxial weft-knitted flax composites
14.2.6 Tensile properties of multilayer-connected biaxial weft-knitted fabric reinforced composites
14.2.7 PVC-coated biaxial warp-knitted fabric under multiaxial tensile loads
14.2.8 The effect of tuck stitches on the mechanical performance
14.3 Composites reinforced by 3D-knitted spacer fabrics
14.4 Compression behavior of knitted composites
14.5 Impact properties of knitted fabric composites
14.6 Sandwich composites with knitted and nonwoven fabrics
14.7 Simulation of mechanical properties
14.7.1 Young's modulus; homogenized Voigt–Reuss model
14.7.2 In-plane Poisson's ratio
14.7.3 In-plane shear modulus
14.8 Concluding remarks
References
15. Application of knitted fabrics in medical textiles
15.1 Introduction
15.2 Properties of weft and warp knitting
15.3 Fibers used in medical textile applications
15.4 Properties of knitted fabric structures for medical devices application
15.5 Ankle braces
15.6 Compression stockings
15.7 Vascular implants
15.8 Hernia mesh
15.9 Wound dressings
15.10 3D spacer fabrics for medical applications
15.11 Future trends in medical applications
15.12 Conclusions
Acknowledgments
References
16. Chemical processing of knitted fabrics
16.1 Introduction
16.2 Pretreatment (preparation)
16.2.1 Grey inspection
16.2.2 Singeing circular knit fabrics
16.2.3 Scouring
16.2.4 Bioscouring
16.2.5 Bleaching
16.2.5.1 Peroxide killing
16.2.6 Biopolishing
16.2.7 Knit mercerization
16.2.8 Heat setting
16.3 Dyeing of knitted fabric
16.3.1 Recipe and function of each reagent for reactive dyeing of knitted cotton fabric
16.3.2 Dyeing of cotton fiber with reactive dye
16.3.3 Classification of reactive dyes
16.3.3.1 Substantive dyes
16.3.3.2 Additive dyes
16.3.3.3 Cold brand
16.3.3.4 Medium/worm brand
16.3.3.5 Hot brand
16.3.3.6 Alkali-controllable reactive dyes
16.3.3.7 Salt-controllable reactive dyes
16.3.3.8 Temperature-controllable reactive dyes
16.3.4 The three-step exhaust dyeing process
16.3.4.1 Exhaustion
16.3.4.2 Fixation
16.3.4.3 Wash-off
16.3.5 Bifunctional reactive dyes
16.3.6 Hydrolysis of reactive dyes
16.3.7 Dyeing of polyester fabric with disperse dye
16.3.8 Soft overflow jet dyeing machine
16.3.9 Winch dyeing machine
16.3.9.1 Squeezer
16.3.9.2 Dryer
16.3.9.3 Compactor (complex)
16.3.10 Application of natural dyes in knitted fabric
16.4 Finishing of knitted fabrics
16.4.1 Mechanical finishing
16.4.1.1 Shrinkage control
16.4.1.2 Raising (napping)
16.4.1.3 Sueding (emerizing)
16.4.2 Chemical finishes
16.4.2.1 Softening finishes
16.4.2.2 Resin finish
16.4.2.3 Moisture management finish
16.4.2.4 Repellent finish
16.4.2.5 Flame retardant finish
16.4.2.6 Antimicrobial finish
16.5 Conclusions
References
17. Sustainable dyeing and printing of knitted fabric with natural dyes
17.1 Introduction
17.2 Natural dye—its advantages and limitations
17.3 Classification of natural dyes
17.4 Mordant
17.5 Natural dyes and its coloring components
17.6 Antibacterial finishing of textiles using herbal extract
17.7 Natural dye as simultaneous dyeing and finishing agents
17.8 Application of natural dye on knitted fabric
17.8.1 Extraction with water
17.8.2 Extraction with organic solvents
17.8.3 Scouring of knitted fabric
17.8.4 Dyeing of knitted fabric
17.8.4.1 In absence of mordant
17.8.4.2 In presence of mordant
17.8.5 Theory of dyeing
17.8.6 Fastness properties
17.9 Case study on natural dyeing and functional finishing
17.10 Printing with natural dye
17.11 Methods of printing
17.11.1 Block printing
17.11.2 Screen printing
17.12 Procedure of printing
17.13 Printing of knitted fabric
17.14 Conclusion
Acknowledgment
References
18. Assessment of comfort and quality of knitted apparels
18.1 Introduction
18.1.1 Consumer's global satisfaction of the knits by using the desirability functions
18.2 Evaluation of comfort properties in knitted apparels
18.2.1 Physical comfort
18.2.1.1 Subjective assessment for next-to-skin knitted fabric apparels
18.2.1.2 Knitted garment smoothness and softness based on paired comparison
18.2.1.3 Low-stress mechanical properties
18.2.1.4 Effect of fabric softener on hand of knitted garment
18.2.1.5 Micromodal air vortex yarns and the tactile wear comfort of knitted fabrics
18.2.1.6 Tactile comfort and low-stress mechanical properties of half-bleached knitted clothing
18.2.2 Other types of physical comfort
18.2.2.1 Design of functional knitted clothing as medical corsets with high physical comfort
18.2.2.2 Prediction of the handle characteristics of lightweight next-to-skin knitted clothing
18.2.2.3 Comfort properties of knitted fabrics with massaging effects
18.2.2.4 Tension in seamless knitted bra
18.2.2.5 Improving of sewability properties of various knitted fabrics with the softeners
18.2.3 Physiological comfort
18.2.3.1 Hybrid artificial intelligence approach to predicting global thermal comfort of stretch knitted fabrics
18.2.3.2 Knit-in 3D mapping and its effect on thermoregulation
18.2.3.3 Thermo-physiological comfort characteristics of plated knitted fabrics
18.2.3.4 Heat transfer
18.2.3.5 Effect of yarn properties on thermal comfort of knitted fabrics
18.2.3.6 Thermal comfort of weft-knitted spacer fabrics
18.2.3.7 Thermal comfort properties of viloft/cotton and viloft/polyester blended knitted fabrics
18.2.3.8 Thermal comfort properties of bamboo–tencel knitted fabrics
18.2.3.9 Comfort attributes of polyester-knitted fabrics treated with sericin
18.2.3.10 Thermal comfort characteristics of knitted fabrics for Abaya (burka)
18.2.4 Air permeability
18.2.4.1 Aerodynamic comfort characteristics of knitted apparel for high-speed winter sports
18.2.5 Water vapor transmission
18.2.6 Overall moisture management
18.2.6.1 Moisture management in finished microdenier polyester knitted fabrics
18.2.6.2 Effect of blend proportion on moisture management characteristics of bamboo/cotton-knitted fabrics
18.2.6.3 Moisture management properties of polyester/milkweed-blended plated knitted fabrics for active wear applications
18.2.6.4 Weft-knitted plant structured fabrics and wearer trial test on polo shirt
Part A: sitting
Part B: walking
18.2.6.5 Thermo-physiological comfort of polyester weft-knitted fabrics for sports T-shirt
18.2.6.6 Effect of filament fineness on comfort characteristics of moisture management finished polyester-knitted fabrics
18.2.6.7 Moisture management in trilayer knitted fabrics for shuttle badminton players
18.2.7 Vertical wicking
18.2.7.1 Wicking behavior of the knitted fabric/clothing under different deformation state
18.2.7.2 Design and description of dynamic wicking tester
18.2.7.3 Description of fluid input unit
18.2.7.4 Description of measuring unit
18.2.7.5 Description of image processing unit
18.2.7.6 Effect of spreading behavior of fabric at front and back after 60s
18.2.7.7 Effect of time on spreading pattern of fabric
18.2.8 Moisture management and antimicrobial performance of collagen peptide–enriched knitted fabrics
18.3 Antimicrobial properties
18.3.1 Moisture management properties of bamboo viscose/tencel single jersey knitted fabrics
18.4 Development, retention, and release of human body odor
18.5 UV protection of plain-knitted fabrics
18.6 Effect of knit structure and finishing treatments on functional and comfort properties
18.6.1 Biofinishing
18.6.1.1 Soft finish
18.6.1.2 Biofinish
18.6.2 Antibacterial finishing
18.6.3 Water-repellent finish
18.7 Psychological comfort
18.8 Other quality parameters of knitted apparels T-shirt design
18.9 Concluding remarks
References
19. Testing and evaluation of knitted fabrics
19.1 Introduction
19.2 Importance of knitted fabric evaluation
19.3 Analysis of knitted fabric
19.3.1 Weft knitting
19.3.2 Warp knitting
19.4 Structural parameters of knitted fabrics
19.4.1 Course and wales
19.4.1.1 Courses
19.4.1.2 Wales
19.4.2 Technical face and back loop
19.4.2.1 Face loop
19.4.2.2 Back loop
19.4.3 Stitch length
19.4.4 Stitch density
19.4.5 Machine gauge or needle gauge
19.5 Testing
19.5.1 Conditioning
19.5.2 Testing methods
19.5.3 Testing of physical properties
19.5.3.1 Areal density of fabric
19.5.3.2 Yarn count and twist
Count
Twist
19.5.3.3 Fiber content test
19.5.4 Dimensional stability
19.5.5 Colorfastness
19.5.5.1 Colorfastness to washing
19.5.5.2 Colorfastness to dry cleaning
19.5.5.3 Colorfastness to ironing
19.5.5.4 Colorfastness to water
19.5.5.5 Colorfastness to rubbing
19.5.5.6 Colorfastness to perspiration
19.5.5.7 Colorfastness to light
Direct approach: sunlight method
Indirect approach: blue wool standards
19.5.5.8 Colorfastness to chlorine bleach
19.5.6 Mechanical characteristics
19.5.6.1 Tensile, tearing, and impact strength
19.5.6.2 Bursting strength
19.5.6.3 Abrasion resistance
19.5.6.4 Pilling resistance
19.5.6.5 Resiliency or stretch recovery test
19.5.6.6 Snagging test
19.5.6.7 Testing comfort properties
Air permeability
Water vapor permeability
19.5.6.8 Thermal resistance
Water vapor resistance
Thermal resistance
19.5.6.9 Fabric drape
19.5.6.10 Compression test
19.5.6.11 Stiffness test
19.6 Objective evaluation of fabric hand by KES and FAST systems
19.6.1 KES-F equipment
19.6.1.1 KES-F tensile module
Shear test
19.6.1.2 KES-F bending
19.6.1.3 KES-F compression
19.6.1.4 KES-F surface friction and roughness
Surface friction
Surface roughness
19.6.2 FAST system
19.6.2.1 FAST—compression
19.6.2.2 FAST—bending meter
19.6.2.3 FAST—extensibility
19.6.2.4 FAST—dimensional stability
19.7 Conclusion
19.8 Sources of further information
References
20. Sustainability analysis for knitting process and products
20.1 Introduction
20.2 Sustainability in knitting industries
20.2.1 Selection of sustainable raw materials
20.2.2 Sustainability in the manufacturing of knitted fabrics
20.2.2.1 Reduction of lead time and waste
20.2.2.2 Energy and environment conservation
20.2.2.3 Reducing the carbon footprint
20.2.3 Sustainability in the chemical processing of knitted fabrics
20.2.4 Sustainability in garment manufacturing
20.3 Test for environmental sustainability of knitted products
20.3.1 Sustainable Apparel Coalition and Higg Index tool
20.3.2 Formaldehyde test
20.3.3 pH value test
20.3.4 Analysis of amines in azo dyestuffs
20.3.5 Product test for alkyl phenol ethoxylate content
20.4 Sustainable approach for knitting business: a case study
20.4.1 Children apparel and accessory product features
20.5 Sustainability and future prospective of textile knitting processing
20.6 Conclusion
References
Index
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
J
K
L
M
N
O
P
Q
R
S
T
U
V
W
X
Y
Z